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Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 1:35 pm
by Laecaon
I'm actually thinking about a new custom crossmember. It would help in many ways.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 2:22 pm
by yello620
Laecaon » February 28th, 2016, 1:35 pm wrote:I'm actually thinking about a new custom crossmember. It would help in many ways.
Maybe time to start think about it in Solidworks. :thumbs:

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2016 2:49 pm
by Laecaon
That requires Precise measuring of something that is in the car... I really should right now considering money is not flowing into the datto right now.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 3:34 am
by Laecaon
Actually, I had forgotten I had a spare crossmember in the garage...

So spent some time measuring, and doing what not. Managed to model something. Decided to do something everyone talks about, and that is to put the LCA into double shear. Yes the LCA mounting hole is awfully close to the one wall, but this is just a 3D render, and I dont feel like editing it right now, and its not in the final location.

I have an idea to shove the center section of the crossmember forward. but that puts it into the sway bar. I also have an idea for moving the sway bar, but that is if I need to ( Right now with the LCA angle, I need to).

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Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 10:47 pm
by RedBanner
just go ahead and make 20 of em I guess. lol

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 3:20 am
by Laecaon
Good news is, Im about to have access to a plama cutter and tig welder, like almost any time I need...

Also, I forgot to add, I also shoved the LCA 1/4" forward for a bit more caster.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:15 am
by yello620
Laecaon » March 3rd, 2016, 3:20 am wrote:Also, I forgot to add, I also shoved the LCA 1/4" forward for a bit more caster.
Seems a little bit conservative to me, but i'm sure you did the math on it to know where your caster should be when moved a given amount.

I recently moved the LCA forward on my C10 by 1/2". I was trying to get 3/4", but had clearance issues with that much movement.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:18 am
by yello620
yello620 » March 3rd, 2016, 11:15 am wrote:
Laecaon » March 3rd, 2016, 3:20 am wrote:Also, I forgot to add, I also shoved the LCA 1/4" forward for a bit more caster.
Seems a little bit conservative to me, but i'm sure you did the math on it to know where your caster should be when moved a given amount.

I recently moved the LCA forward on my C10 by 1/2". I was trying to get 3/4", but had clearance issues with that much movement.

Also, have you ever looked at Nelson's 510? He eliminated the TC rod and made custom lower control arms. IIRC he is also using S13 spindles and based the control arm geometry and mounting points around a BMW design. Something to consider.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 6:57 pm
by Laecaon
I have never actually met Nelson. Saw his B in January at a meet. I looked into deleteing/integrating the t/c rod. Mostly inspiration from S13 high angle kits. It doesn't matter too much as you reall don't gain any steering angle from moving the tc rod as the tire will just hit the bottom "frame" rail. That said, nothing is out of question, as I have full access to mandrel bending in my shop and could get a few suspension pieces made easily.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 9:45 pm
by DRIVEN
My mostly stock 510 handles pretty well...just sayin,

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 10:02 pm
by Laecaon
Mine did too, but turbo messed it up.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 2:57 pm
by RedBanner
mine did too, but I cant drive, and need all the advantages I can get!

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:27 am
by RedBanner
" All of these photos are with the the Control arm extended 1/2" from 510 LCA pivot to Balljoint. 195/50/15 tire, on a 15x7 et17 wheel. "
I didn't put it together until now, but that would be the stock b210 lca length.

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 1:31 pm
by Laecaon
Engineering question.

Making my axle bearing retainers.

Do I go the way most brake brackets go and leave the bottom of the bearing exposed at the flange? Or do I pull my bearings and replace the drum brake backing plate?

I do currently have Timken sealed bearings on my axle, so its not a problem to leave exposed, I just feel weird doing it.

Im sick right now so I kinda hate anything with a screen... but I have been doing a bit at work to finish these. And then I can forget about the rear axle!!!

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 3:42 pm
by RedBanner
Hmmm. It would be nice to have the wheel bearing covered, so the bracket bolts on replaci.g the backing plate and dust shield, but is open on the bottom, ass in it uses 3 of the backing plate/axle retainer bolt holes and has a slot to slide over the axle? Maybe if you could get a psi e of 20g behind the bracket? Slot it so it comes up from the bottom and the bracket slides. On from the top, covering both sides?

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 2:39 am
by Laecaon
Boss had me work overtime, I decided to clock off after 6 hours and go play instead.

So some fun on the lathe and mill.

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Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 5:29 am
by DRIVEN
Ever miss actually driving that car?
:troll:

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 10:01 am
by Laecaon
Very yes. It's been in my head...

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 7:28 pm
by K_trip
where is that thumb's up when you need it?

Re: Jacob's goon build

Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 7:49 pm
by Laecaon
I'm working on it. Almost got it today...