New World Datsuns...

K_trip wrote:where is that thumb's up when you need it?

back to this,


newbie AKA_smoke broke it.

It was broke prior to that guy touching it.

ECU; Redone.

First ECU I was planning on doing chips, soldered in a easy plug for that. Which was very hard to uninstall. I ended up ripping up a trace on the board. While I could have just run a wire external of the board, I had a second ECU.

Second ECU; Nistune.

Out of its case:


Factory chip removed, plug installed in place(I should have done this on the first ECU).


Nistune board installed, USB plug installed. Case back on.


USB plug. Uses a Type B plug. Uses the factory hole for the diagnostic switch. Nistune software will display the error code, so no need for this switch.


And all done.

Also, I have set a goal. Car sitting on the ground again by the end of June. Gonna order some metal at work this week. I also really need a press.

So...blue lake?

Draynor came over today. Bounced a few ideas back and forth. Came up with a plan of attack.

Looked at everything I cant change, and what I can change. Based on all of that, We have concluded that the engine needs to go back in the car about .75 inch.

I was hesitant at first, but all it really messes up is my driveshaft. I hate my tranny mount, and making a custom crossmember means I can put the engine where I like.

With that change, I will not have to move the LCA points forward in the car, which is very nice. Ill take a few more measurements before committing to anything.

Right now the only thing resisting this change is the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Might have to message the firewall a tad for that.

Came up with a new plan. Push the motor back 1/2". Push the LCA pivots forward 1/2". Should give me all the room in the world.

Motor is now hanging from a bar across the engine bay by a couple of ratchet straps. Plan is to yank the crossmember tomorrow and take both crossmembers I have into work and take accurate measurements of both. Then onto Jig building!

Finally got enough time/motivation to do something! Busted out my crossmember jig. Its fairly simple, first I made a jig that had locations for mounting the crossmember and LCA mount in XYZ. Then I used a bolt (9/16th bolt shoved through a 14mm hole... it was tight) to space the LCA forward 1/2" with a spacer (made of aluminum). I also made a piece out of steel to act as the LCA, maintaining the same width of the bushing. Then some other stuff I made at work, and its all adjustable in side to side movement, and up down. I took some baseline measurements too.










Dont mind the welds, Half were done without a mask, and I was fighting the welder settings/wire feed.

Next I need to accurately measure the ball joint and tierod pivots on the knuckle, thinking I need to destroy one of each and take it to work.

Knuckle is measured! Measured in all 3 axes. Used the hub face and the strut attachment as references to hold the knuckle straight.


Here I am measuring what I call the Y axis (front to back in the car):



Here I am measuring the X axis (side to side in car), Zeroed off the ball joint:



And to the tie rod joint:



Measuring the diameter of the Ball joint ball (too find center):



Measuring the diameter of the tie rod ball:



Everything jotted down to do the math at home:


Finally for true center to center:

X: 1.3585"
Y: 4.534"
Z: .2425"


Also this phone takes really shitty pictures.

Taking more and more measurements, things are looking good for clearance. Rack will clear the engine, and the LCAs have nearly unlimited room to move. I need to figure out just how high I can push the LCA pivots up, because any higher than currently planned will move my roll center right into the sweet spot. I'm excited.

Are you still building a custom oil pan? or going back to front sump for the rack? I want a rear sump pan for my CA18DE, if I swap it in my 2dr 710.

Still building a custom pan. I have to wait to get the rack and cross member done. Its going to end up as a mid sump.

So didnt meet my goal... yea...

Did some CAD work to figure out just how I want to make the crossmember.



I have also ordered some S14 inner and outer tie rods. Though they might be too long...

Looking good man!

Lol. Haven't been here in a while. pretty cool what you're doing man!

Woah, I bought something. And it has arrived.

First AN fitting I have ever bought (FPR came with some though...). These are -6AN, to m16x1.5 O-ring or power steering fitting. And I did that because of the second picture.



A fuel filter! This was an easy choice. This is for GM trucks, used in all of their V8 trucks. I figure if it can provide fuel for a thirsty v8 it will work fine for a turbo 4.

I have read many places that buying AN stuff gets addicting. Like crack.

Yea, I have been really hesitant about it. They are also stupid expensive. I get why they are expensive, true AN fittings have super tight tolerances on the threads and taper (sealing surface). Honestly AN fittings are way overkill for a street car. If they were more common I would use the very similar brother to AN fittings, JIC fittings which just have looser tolerances.

Also the keyboard on my laptop decided to say that it was fucked. Sigh. Had to hook up an external keyboard. Hey, its an 8 year old laptop and somehow still works well.

Well I did a thing. Shortly after this I threw away two of these pieces.