The "Retired" 510
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Cool I'll look into that when the time comes. I tried to cut in a semi straight spot, thinking ahead to one of those sleeve deals with big hose clamps on both ends. But the ground clearance issue needs fixing still. I'm sure a shop could use my tubing to do what I want. It just needs to be sucked up into the trans tunnel. It's like my exhaust guy purposefully avoided the tunnel. 
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
4" goals. V-band flange should have no problem sliding in and out of that.
Got the diff cleaned up. It says 4.3 on it, makes me wonder if it's a 4.37, and not a 3.9 like I thought. I'll have to figure that out.
Also ordered a box of 25 m12x1.25 nylock nuts. Thankfully the entire rear end has all the same size bolts and nuts. The 48 year old lock nuts weren't doing such a great job locking considering most were missing the nylon.
Got the diff cleaned up. It says 4.3 on it, makes me wonder if it's a 4.37, and not a 3.9 like I thought. I'll have to figure that out.
Also ordered a box of 25 m12x1.25 nylock nuts. Thankfully the entire rear end has all the same size bolts and nuts. The 48 year old lock nuts weren't doing such a great job locking considering most were missing the nylon.
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DRIVEN
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Same shop footwear as me.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Gotta keep the airflow! It's my first indoor space to work where a car actually fits, don't even have to get dressed to do most jobs 
Sooo, I don't recommend replacing the rear control arm bushings unless you know they're causing an issue, or you want solid bushings, etc. Mine seemed bad from the outside, but once we melted the centers out the rubber was just fine. I took the arms over to an old timer I knows shop, we heated them to near red and tapped with a thick punch to push out the rubber center. Then split the outer metal part with a reciprocating saw, and finally over to the press to push out the split outer part.
He's working on the crossmember for me now, he says 4" should work fine for the exhaust hole.
Sooo, I don't recommend replacing the rear control arm bushings unless you know they're causing an issue, or you want solid bushings, etc. Mine seemed bad from the outside, but once we melted the centers out the rubber was just fine. I took the arms over to an old timer I knows shop, we heated them to near red and tapped with a thick punch to push out the rubber center. Then split the outer metal part with a reciprocating saw, and finally over to the press to push out the split outer part.
He's working on the crossmember for me now, he says 4" should work fine for the exhaust hole.
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DRIVEN
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Re: The "Retired" 510
I think that was a wise upgrade.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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DRIVEN
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Looks great!
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Bent up these clevis brackets for the parking brake levers. Started with a couple pieces 5" long 3/4" wide 1/16" thick (may be slightly thicker).
Then I found a couple clevis pins at the hardware store that were the correct diameter (7.85mm or so) none were the correct length though.
Cut those down and then I broke my two smallest drill bits trying to make the lock pin hole. So I'll need more bits before I can finish. But they look like they'll do exactly what I need.
And at $5 they are a great deal, compared to the $25+ people want to charge for rust rotted clevis brackets. No luck at the junk yard either, spent too much time looking and didnt find anything that'd work.
I think I'm gonna go with a 300zx brake handle, there almost identical to the 280zx ones and they're much easier to find for a reasonable price. Speaking of 280zx, people are trying to get big money out of those too.
Then I found a couple clevis pins at the hardware store that were the correct diameter (7.85mm or so) none were the correct length though.
Cut those down and then I broke my two smallest drill bits trying to make the lock pin hole. So I'll need more bits before I can finish. But they look like they'll do exactly what I need.
And at $5 they are a great deal, compared to the $25+ people want to charge for rust rotted clevis brackets. No luck at the junk yard either, spent too much time looking and didnt find anything that'd work.
I think I'm gonna go with a 300zx brake handle, there almost identical to the 280zx ones and they're much easier to find for a reasonable price. Speaking of 280zx, people are trying to get big money out of those too.
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DRIVEN
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Came out nice. And, yes, lots of meth-heads think their shitty ZXs are valuable.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Small hiccup installing the rear end. Realized I don't have the big flat washer that normally sits on the top of the crossmember between the bushing and body. Does that have something to do with the savage washer mod I've heard about? With these poly bushings you're supposed to eliminate the lower cup washer and put the big flat one on the bottom. No problem, big hole saw time. I can only cut one then I needed to charge the drill battery. Just needs 12mm hole in the center. I believe that 2x4 has a wall thickness of 3/16", wasn't cheap is all I remember. Lol
Last edited by noflers on Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Ready to go
All buttoned up. Looks like with the washers that are already tacked in place I'll have to set the car pretty low to get close to 0-1° camber, who knows with the toe setting. We'll see...
Gonna get my tires mounted tomorrow and set the rear end on dollies. Now to start back on this
All buttoned up. Looks like with the washers that are already tacked in place I'll have to set the car pretty low to get close to 0-1° camber, who knows with the toe setting. We'll see...
Gonna get my tires mounted tomorrow and set the rear end on dollies. Now to start back on this
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DRIVEN
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Been busy.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Kinda sorta, taking my time though.
This is a refreshing sight, a lowered 510 with just the right amount of negative camber (-1 give or take). Damm that's a great stance.
Wheel cylinders connected, coilovers installed, wheels mounted. Realized I dont need 4 dollies, one end on rollers makes moving the car around the garage easy.
This is a refreshing sight, a lowered 510 with just the right amount of negative camber (-1 give or take). Damm that's a great stance.
Wheel cylinders connected, coilovers installed, wheels mounted. Realized I dont need 4 dollies, one end on rollers makes moving the car around the garage easy.
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Laecaon
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Re: The "Retired" 510
I bought a corded drill just for hole saw duty. I kept overheating my batteries with a 4" hole saw. Corded had more torque and didnt give up, plus being gear reduced it spun slower so it was easier to manage the hole saw.
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noflers
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Re: The "Retired" 510
A corded drill makes sense for a lot of stuff I do. Would be nice to have one to raise and lower the transmission jack. I actually had to charge my battery 3 times total for this hole saw job (3.5" holes). If the battery is too hot the charger will stay in test mode and won't charge, which makes the battery hotter. Gotta put it in the freezer between uses.
Battery safety is no joke. Don't do what I do.
Battery safety is no joke. Don't do what I do.
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DRIVEN
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Re: The "Retired" 510
Yes, corded drill.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
