New World Datsuns...

So one of the first things I notice in this set is the metric dies are threaded, and the stem that goes into the pipe for making the flare is considerably larger on the 8mm than on the 5/16. Think I just found my issue. Should go better this second time around.

So I re-checked the line. It's actually .315 OD. So I used the new mandrel and it worked okay. Still tends to get a non-round crush that gets semi-fixed with the second flaring with the cone. Either way, I'm getting annoyed. Bought the new set, and I've figured out the issue. One, I'm stronger than I used to be. Two, the little round bar that goes through the tool has flats on one end to prevent it from slipping through. Problem is, the hole it goes through is round, and if it's at the end, it starts chipping the edge. Already almost broke the new tool, fuck! That one will get warrantied.

Anyway, finally got a win though. The PS system is in and bled. Looks to be working just fine, though I haven't set it on the ground and tried to turn the wheels. I actually wish I still had the original Japan copy of a Saginaw pump. Basically the Maximas got a 76 Chevy PS pump, lol. It could move mountains with that unit. Anyway, opted to repair the line I screwed up with a compression union rather than spend another $65 bucks. I'm bleeding way too much money into the wagon and the race car right now. Need to stop spending for a bit. Looks like my flares were good enough, don't see any leaks currently. I'll check again tomorrow. Either way, that only leaves the AC for peripherals needing hooked up. Still a lot of little things, but today was much more productive than yesterday.

I also started her up and ran her to operating temperature tonight. She seems to be a little uneven on idle, but then, she's also been sitting for quite a while again. And I don't have the exhaust hooked up. Really wish I would have changed injectors when I had the plenum off. I think I can leave it on and just remove the throttle body and get the fuel rail out that way, but it will be a pain in the ass, no question. I ordered some gaskets in case I do have to take the plenum off.

After she ran for a bit she sounded better. Not to mention, this motor has run at operating temperature for maybe an hour total between start ups. Probably once I get her done and out on the road, she'll get better by bits here and there. I even took a video but it's too large to get off the phone and the data transfer cable I had died, so I have the cheap one that will only charge right now. And I don't care that much.

Short of it is this weekend wasn't a total waste. A big step of the wagon is done. Technically I don't need AC, so that means I can focus on getting everything else done so I can drive her and get some miles in and see what other money I need to throw at her, lol.

Did I mention an LS would have been cheaper? But this will make the Datsun Gods happy.


















The dogs on a food run with me.





This is for the dual return outlet on the power steering reservoir. The little itty bitty return line joins up with the other side of the tee. Worked great!

Once you've got the exhaust done and can run it longer, Seafoam will probably smooth out that rough idle. Mine sat for over a year and had a couple unhappy injectors and Seafoam cured their ills. I'm lucky that an injector swap is a 6 minute job and I have spares but I went pharmaceutical versus surgical.

Now, clean your garage.

lol I don't see any mess! As soon as I get the exhaust and driveshaft connected, I'm backing her out and doing a massive cleaning.

Definitely will do the seafoam treatment. I had some in the tank already, need to put some more in since I added fuel some months back.

Checked tonight, leaking from the pump body. Damn. So now I need to find some special o-rings. Looking from what's available, it looks like the sealing rings are different between KA D21/240/R32. They're all o-rings that are round on the American pumps. This one is a funky shaped o-ring. Maybe they fit in the same hole, but the specific ones for that shape are a squashed lemon with a little bell on one side. Makes me think it would be hard to get them to stay without being pre-formed. I'll do some more digging. Someone has to have them.

I did clean it off to re-check later. Didn't leak terribly, but there was a drip hanging when I checked it. I'm betting it's not going to just happily seal all by itself. Tightened the bolts too, but they were already pretty tight.

This is the perfect song for this build. And pretty much all the projects in my life, lol.

So today I'm heading up to Pull and Save. I have a theory of possibly an Altima PS pump working for the RB. A KA dohc 240sx pump apparently does, but I'm done with spending money on this build. I have almost all the pieces, the rest is junkyard diving to make something work. Beside the AC pump, but that will be later and new, as will be the hoses. And if the Altima pump doesn't work, I may disassemble the RB pump and see if a regular o-ring can be made to stay in the groove (and be the right length) and still seal. Can't find the correct Nissan rebuild kit for that particular pump, and I did read a post from someone else with an RB swap mentioning that the P/S pump is kind of weak. They had the same thing, with the veins in the back removed.

Ok yeah, fuck that. The Altima pump is buried beneath the intake. Even taking off the wheel and going underneath, you need a lift to get at it, and even that is a pain. So instead, I took a splined VG30 '97 Maxima PS pulley off and I'm going to see if it bolts onto the hardbody KAE power steering pump that currently has a v belt pulley on it. IF it mounts up, I'll have to run it upside down, which really won't matter provided the 16mm banjo fitting is tight. Going to see if I can do that with the spare hardbody pump I have. After lunch.

Good news is I found a nearly perfect left front fender of a Pathfinder for the D21. Super stoked. Just a few little surface rust pinhole spots around the edge, but no dings whatsoever. Can easily be sanded down and painted with zero prep!

why Nissans so complicated?

Seriously! So I rebuilt the pump, put a very small amount of right stuff on the o-rings I was unable to get, tried to keep it out of the holes. On putting back together, it's harder to turn. I did clean out everything so there was no oil on the bushings, however, before I tightened it down, it turned freely. On tightening is where it got a bit more annoyed. Still turns by hand. Think I'm going to let it sit, then say fuck it and test. If it dies, I'll continue my search for something else that works that isn't horribly expensive. The hardbody pump (at least I think it is) might work, but it has too long a mounting flange. About 2" inbetween on the RB, whereas the D21 (again, I think that's what it's from) is about 2 and 5/8. So unless I modify the mount, not going to work. Annoyingly, 240sx pumps aren't that easy to find these days. What the fuck?! Do they think they're like 20+ years old?! Oh wait, yeah. Sigh. Fucking Nissan.

I've decided I want something easier. Either I'm going to find a 240sx pump for not a million dollars, or maybe I'll go electric power steering. Not sure. Currently I'm wading through NAPA's site to try and find a power steering pump with the right mounting that might work, off something else. Giant pain in the ass. I wish I had access to a list by rebuilder based on body size, inlet, etc. That would make it much easier to find a random pump that shares the same housing, regardless of which vehicle it's on.

Rockauto pictures are easier.

I have commercial version. Problem is almost every pump that is correct, isn't correct. I can make some sort of adapter, but I'd rather just get a damn pump that fits so I don't have to mess with stuff. They do have some rebuilts apparently, but they're super expensive and of course I don't have a core. I'd send off the RB pump to be rebuilt, but no guaranteeing they can get the right o-rings. A 240sx usdm unit is a lot better option. Then I can order the correct rebuild kit from Nissan should I ever need it. Hell, I'm still using the factory power steering pump on the hardbody at 236k miles.

I may just have to pony up the dough, but I have someone on facebook who might have a used 240 pump, we shall see.

Apparently the go to swap is a RB25 pump bracket, with a KA24 pump.

Yeah, I thought since the RB20/25 are the same for engine height that I'd be okay. Got a KADE pump today from a fellow off facebook. Its mounting boss is too long for the current RB mount. It came with the bracket, looks like a good quality used pump, no leakage, but it's missing the extension inlet and I found it's 17 or 18mm banjo inlet to 16mm banjo for ps pressure hose. And the 240 bracket holds it fine, but I suspect it's not going to bolt to the RB, but I'll try that later on.

Either way I want to use that pump and most everything is correct. The guy is checking to see if he still has the little extension piece. Hoping some other Nissan has that if he doesn't, maybe I can Pull and Save another piece. For the moment I'm concentrating on house projects, do more car stuff tonight or tomorrow. Have the inlaws coming over tomorrow, have to get ready.

Yay, the guy found the extension piece! Woohoo! One step closer!

My guess, the CA18DET PS pump would bolt on. But the RB25/KA being a hint newer, they updated the design.

Probably would, but those are even rarer than the RB nowadays.

So I ordered a PS bracket for an RB25 off ebay. $100 but easier than trying to fab something up and wasting tons more time. Have to wait another week with the holiday and all, but should get it by next Wednesday. And then, finally, I'll have a 240sx DE pump on an RB25 bracket which should all bolt right up to the RB20 and I'll be done with this fucking power steering mess. It's been way more annoyance than I planned. At this rate, I think the AC will be easier to hook up!

Good news is the exhaust piece I had Discount Muffler make up actually fit near perfectly, so I can tack that in. Got the turbo heat shield on the other day. Now I need to put in the air scoop for the intercooler. Going to cut a hole in the front valence. Got some galvanized 1/4" square hardware wire mesh I'm going to double up and use as a screen. Basically I'll have a rectangular hole in the front valence lower with mesh behind it to keep leaves and rocks out of the intercooler. I'm going to put a piece of flat plate across the bottom to seal it in. Should work nicely with only minor cutting. Front valence has dents anyway, and now that I've cut the inner fender to fit the intercooler pipes, I have less reservations about cutting the factory sheet metal as long as it's done nicely.

Still need to figure out the electric fan setup. Not sure how that works, need to investigate the wiring diagrams again. But tomorrow is an in-law day for Memorial Day. Got to play with my new weed wacker today though, stoked about that. Got a nice Echo SRM-225. It's sweet! Torquey and quiet. Surprisingly it seems to have more beans than the 31cc Bolens I'm replacing. It's only 21 cc. Either way, works very nicely. The Bolens has been on it's last legs for the past 3 years. It finally started blowing fuel oil out of every orifice. I decided I was done. I overheated it about 7 years ago and kept using it, so it did it's job. Didn't feel like pulling it apart to attempt a rebuild. I like Echo better anyway. Now it matches my ancient chainsaw! Which I need to fire up and clear the fuel out. Started it up in winter, but it's been sitting a bit. Pretty sure I have non-ethanol in it though. Should be ok.

I have a Echo SRM-2100. Its light and quiet. Picked it up for $35. Its great.