New World Datsuns...

Build pics requested in advance.

It's back....
This is a 2004 LM4 block that has now been bored from the stock 5.3 spec of 3.78" to the stock spec of a 5.7 with a 3.898" bore.





Here is a part list that is more for my future reference.
LS1340898F04 Mahle pistons. These are Gen IV forged floating wrist pin.
"USED" Gen IV connecting rods + machining to accept SAE aftermarket pistons. Factory is a metric bushing size.
9-4194 Cloyes timing chain.
MS-2199P Clevite crank bearings.
CB-663P Cam bearings.
PC2465 Speedpro head studs.
17801830 GM oil pump. will get ported before install.
5308 "USED" GM LS6 cam.
12499224 GM LS6 valve springs.
917-139 Dorman Harmonic balancer bolt. These are a torque to yield bolt that needs replaced every time.
OGV1 Engine tech oil galley plug.
B31822 Victor Reinz cam plate seal.
CS9284 Fel-pro Lower gasket set.
CS9284PT1 Fel-pro upper gasket set.

EDITS:
12499225 GM LS7 lifters
134-1003 ARP cam bolts

Mm. fresh motor is always porn.

yello620 » February 28th, 2016, 9:34 am wrote:It's back....
This is a 2004 LM4 block that has now been bored from the stock 5.3 spec of 3.78" to the stock spec of a 5.7 with a 3.898" bore.





Here is a part list that is more for my future reference.
LS1340898F04 Mahle pistons. These are Gen IV forged floating wrist pin.
"USED" Gen IV connecting rods + machining to accept SAE aftermarket pistons. Factory is a metric bushing size.
9-4194 Cloyes timing chain.
MS-2199P Clevite crank bearings.
CB-663P Cam bearings.
PC2465 Speedpro head studs.
17801830 GM oil pump. will get ported before install.
5308 "USED" GM LS6 cam.
12499224 GM LS6 valve springs.
917-139 Dorman Harmonic balancer bolt. These are a torque to yield bolt that needs replaced every time.
OGV1 Engine tech oil galley plug.
B31822 Victor Reinz cam plate seal.
CS9284 Fel-pro Lower gasket set.
CS9284PT1 Fel-pro upper gasket set.

Added more parts to the list parts
134-1003 ARP cam bolts

I was told by the shop that did my machine work that these head casting were not worth reusing(from a performance standpoint), and that I should throw them away. Then I read multiple times online that they are great castings to work with.
So this has happened...




Here is a view looking into the exhaust port.


First set of heads I have ever ported. Turned out pretty good. I am not going to install the larger valves(1.89 vs. 2.0) into these heads though. Going to hit the valves/seats with a little lapping compound before assembly.

And another part number to add to the list.
12499225 GM LS7 lifters

I wanted to do that on the CA. But I couldnt find hard evidence of where the water jackets were, and I had seen people find them...

Little more assembled. LS6 springs installed. LS7 lifters and LS2 lifter trays installed except two lifters.


Need to verify piston to valve clearance before final assembly. Have two hydraulic lifters filled with gorilla glue to make them solid lifters to check clearances.

Took my truck out to PIR last Friday to run it at the Late Night Drags. Was sorely disappointed, didn't get to run it. PIR is now adhering to NHRA rules and will not allow vehicles to run with an in-cab fuel tank(factory). So, all the work I did to build a sump onto the bottom of the factory tank was a waste of time. I just ordered a 87 Blazer tank that mounts under the rear of the truck just like it did in a blazer, And an ACdelco EP381 pump. I'm not sure what all will be needed to adapt the lines on the ppump to my current setup, but i'm sure it will involve another parts order creating another week of setback.

So, another parts list;
Spectra GM15C fuel tank. EDIT:Returned 4/20/16
Spectra FG12K tank sending unit.
ACdelco EP381 fuel pump.
ACdelco TS7 pump strainer.

Bummer.

But safety is safety...

Sucks that there is the extra cost/complication. On the up side, there might be a minimal benefit of in the weight distribution department.

Man that does suck. Any current pics of the truck?

Started to type "Trucks outward appearance has not changed at all", but then I realized that I had the windows tinted about three weeks ago and I added a shitty old front bumper since the pics on page one.

The 87 Blazer tank that I ordered the other day did not fit, way to big. Researched it more and it fits the 73-87 trucks perfectly. For my 67-72 style truck, I have to use the 69-72 Blazer tank. Unfortunately, the older style tank does not have baffles in it or a larger sending unit hole in it for the electric fuel pump. Fabricating will be required now.

I am headed to Vancouver today to buy a Blazer fuel tank that mounts under the back of the truck. Might also buy a rear bumper and brackets.

Once I have a fuel tank, I will be able to figure out how I am going to fill it since the filler neck in the side of the cab won't work anymore. I was looking at the filler on my daughters 99 S10 and I think it might be perfect. Just have to cut a hole in the side of the bed and cut the inner bed wall to conceal it a bit. I also might make it a passenger side fill instead of the factory driver side fill. I always preferred to fill my Datsun with it's passenger side fill, for some reason the pump lines are almost always shorter.

Got my early Blazer tank, now to get a fuel pump inside of it. Here is a picture of the stock Blazer sending unit.

Starting to modify it. Fuel level sender cut off.

The direction I am headed with it.

Quick mockup. Level sender just propped in place.

And with a cardboard template of the bracket that I will build, hopefully tomorrow.


I also need to figure out how to get the power wires routed though the top. Shouldn’t be impossible.

That should work just fine.

So I got that fuel pump/sending unit built into a final revision and was happy with it, then went to fit the tank into the truck. This is the common tank to swap into the C10's, it is nothing more than a stock tank from a 69-72 Blazer. Read multiple times how good these tank work and how well they fit under the truck.

They fit like shit, I boxed it back up. I am now the proud owner of a brand new tank that is useless to me.

Sooooooooooo
I stepped right up the the money tree and ordered a custom aluminum tank that is fully baffled with the in-tank pump. Also ordered a bunch of -6AN fittings and braided hose for the install.

I will post pics when the tank arrives.

More parts to add to the list
Russell 640610 5/8x18 tube to -6AN----probably not using now
Russell 644110 5/16" filter adapter to -6AN
Russell 610020 -6AN hose end (x8)
Earls 165056ERL 5/16" tube to -6AN----probably not using now
Aeroquip FBM2035 -6AN to 3/8"NPT 90°
Earls 984004 1/8"npt to 1/4" straight hose barb
Earls 984210 1/2"npt to 5/8" 90° hose barb
Russell 640940 -6AN male to 3/8" male quick connect---ordered for later use
Russell 644120 -6AN male to 3/8" quick connect
Russell 644110 -6AN male to 5/16" quick connect

Trick Flow Specialties 21407350 7.350" pushrods

That sucks, but at least it will be nice and clean, and hopefully fit perfectly. Im still debating on what I want to do on my fuel tank. Modify the stock one or fab a custom one.

Fittings are fun, I mean spendy... I think I calculated the cost of Hose clamps on my car, going with the nice T clamps and I will get close to $100.

yello620 wrote:This is the common tank to swap into the C10's, it is nothing more than a stock tank from a 69-72 Blazer. Read multiple times how good these tank work and how well they fit under the truck.

WTF ... when I came here to check your latest posting, I wasn't expecting this.



I have faith that this next tank will be the last tank your truck ever needs!

Have a pic of the tank you aren't using?

Izzo, this is the tank I have that just isn't going to work for my application.
http://www.classictruck.com/product/196 ... rban_Panel

Just got home from a LONG test drive with the C10. LOL Drove it to Bellingham, WA. Google showed 289 miles each way. Drove there Saturday morning for my cousins wedding, then drove home today. Averaged 16.8 MPG, Seems to get 18 if you can keep it to 60 mph, but when you are averaging around 78 mph. the mileage goes way down to 14.8.