I removed one gutter and cut the rafter tails back. That was actually pretty easy.. I just used a jig saw and a multi-tool with a wood cutting attachment. Worked pretty well and is lightweight for maneuvering easily on a ladder. I opted to go with some hardiboard for the trim. Seemed like a good option that would last a long time. The problem is.. it's fucking heavy. I have to pre-drill all the holes for nails and cutting it is a mother fucker... it requires special blades.
I think I'll do the lower level in hardiboard.. but 2nd story will be just wood.
anyway here is a picture.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 11:40 am
by draker
Also finally got the my utility trailer built with side rails. Took a shit ton of bricks and trash from all these projects to the dump.. Things are starting to shape up around the house.. woo hoo!
Now I'm trying determine.... do I refurbish my existing gutters and reinstall.. or do I buy new. hmm.. rain is coming. fuuuuu
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 11:46 am
by draker
Also, this is why I didn't get much done over the last two weeks.
Leave Oregon, 95 degrees. Land in Chicago.. fuuu
Weird..?
Who cleans the bean?
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 2:00 pm
by izzo
Wow man!
Jelly. What did you go there for? Nice pics. I wondered where that metal thing was. Saw it in a movie once. Fuck that rain in the face.
Jelly. What did you go there for? Nice pics. I wondered where that metal thing was. Saw it in a movie once. Fuck that rain in the face.
I just went for vacation. My girlfriend has some family there.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
by draker
We are now officially on hose bib freeze watch 2015.
So far I have not covered them up. Yesterday it got down to around 15-20 degrees with a high of around 30. Last night it was in the 20's and right now it's about 28. Went and checked it.. water flowing with no issues.
So far I have not covered them up. Yesterday it got down to around 15-20 degrees with a high of around 30. Last night it was in the 20's and right now it's about 28. Went and checked it.. water flowing with no issues.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:25 am
by draker
I noticed my garage door was a bit heavy if lifting it manually.. It would not stay at any open position either.. it would just slam closed. I inspected the lift springs and they all looked good.
I figured they were probably just worn and I should adjust them. I unwound both lift springs and noticed one was tighter than the other.. so it was out of balance. Not that that really matters, just an overall loss in lift. Also I noticed I am missing the center support bearing. Probably why my door makes so much metal on metal noise when it goes up and down. Looking in to buying one of those. For now I lubed it and it sounds good now.
Anyway, I wound the springs to 30 quarter turns. 7.5 full turns.. and it didn't have enough lift assist. Springs are about 10 years old.. so they are towards the end of their life. I wound them to 33 quarter turns.. and now the door will stay open at almost any height. If I get towards the top, it likes to pull all the way open. Not a big deal.
Anyway this was my first time dealing with these springs. If you notice your door is hard to open manually, or your door will not stay open at any position, then your springs need adjusted. If it's hard for you to open your door, it's wearing your garage door opener out.
Here is the video I used. This guys explains it pretty well. Do your research before attempting this and USE CAUTION!!! It's fucking dangerous! Also, I just used 3/8" extensions for my winding bars. Worked fine..
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 1:55 pm
by wayno
I did 36 quarter turns on my springs, but I have a heavy wood door, but about 3 months later it sounded like a car/plane hit the house, it took me a while to figure it out, but one of the springs let go, now the new spring is wound about 30/32 quarter turns, I cannot remember anymore, I just kept tightening it till the door went up straight.
Them side cables are a hassle, they tend to do what they want to do until they are tight.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 8:06 pm
by 510freak
Those springs can hurt one badly! Defiantly use caution!
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 10:26 pm
by draker
wayno » Mon Feb 09, 2015 2:55 pm wrote:I did 36 quarter turns on my springs, but I have a heavy wood door, but about 3 months later it sounded like a car/plane hit the house, it took me a while to figure it out, but one of the springs let go, now the new spring is wound about 30/32 quarter turns, I cannot remember anymore, I just kept tightening it till the door went up straight.
Them side cables are a hassle, they tend to do what they want to do until they are tight.
I'm guessing in 2-5 years its going to be time to replace them. I gotta find out if I need that center bearing.. I'm guessing I should probably just install one.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 1:21 am
by Laecaon
I have a center bearing, 2 springs. I think I am at 8.5 turns, so 34 quarter turns. Door stays at position anywhere above half open, below it attempts to fall. Im pretty sure the springs are shot. But whatevers, the garage door opener is dead, I just manually open it. And considering the endplate bearing chopped off the end of the tube... I think its fairly worn.
Oh and yea its not safe if you do it wrong. Do the method shown, and its not going anywhere, unless a spring snaps. but its still around the rod.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 9:56 pm
by draker
Not a big update.. but I installed a deadbolt in my rear garage door. Also installed a new lock in my shed.. it didn't have anything before. Kinda risky.. But it's a decent neighborhood.
Next on deck...
I need to replace about 100' of old fencing... it is falling over.. if it wasn't for a bunch of bailing wire, it would be laying on the ground. lol
I'm going to replace it a little at a time in ~10ft sections. I can't have any open sections for longer than a weekend cause my derp derp dog.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:22 pm
by draker
I just bought some fencing materials today.. enough to do 16 feet.. $125. wtf!! I have over 120ft to do..
Fuck fences.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:24 pm
by devilsbullet
theres a reason I haven't touched my fence in the front...outside of the fact that I have many much more interesting and pressing projects around my house. like my entire fucking yard lol.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:41 pm
by wayno
draker » Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:22 pm wrote:I just bought some fencing materials today.. enough to do 16 feet.. $125. wtf!! I have over 120ft to do..
Fuck fences.
What, are you buying pre-made or something?
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 10:00 pm
by draker
No premade.. if I had done that it would have been $104.
Cedar 1x6x6 are 2.33 each. That alone was $65. Add pressure treated 4x4's and pressure treated 2x4's.. nails, screws, concrete.. it's crazy.
Cedar 1x6x6 are 2.33 each. That alone was $65. Add pressure treated 4x4's and pressure treated 2x4's.. nails, screws, concrete.. it's crazy.
I believe that it cost me about $400.00 to put 50 feet of cedar fence up 12 or 13 years ago, so I guess your in the ball park, the joys of home ownership.
Re: Draker's House - Build thread edition
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 6:47 am
by Taterhead
draker » Sat Mar 21, 2015 11:22 pm wrote:I just bought some fencing materials today.. enough to do 16 feet.. $125. wtf!! I have over 120ft to do..
Fuck fences.
This is the reason my shit still isn't finished.
That and I got to much shit on my plate, and I procrastinate, a lot.
Maybe this'll help you out. My fence is facing in, meaning I see the board face in my yard and not my neighbors. What I use behind it I can't see so I buy treated 2x6's and rip them down the middle making 2-2x3's as my plank nailing boards and I use 4x4 landscape timbers (they are treated as well and are $2 cheaper each down here) as the posts since they only have to be flat on one side.
If your fence is facing out then you are S.O.L. as you probably want it all uniform. Even the way I did mine is an improvement on my neighbors yard, which is a big part of why I wanted a privacy fence.