New World Datsuns...

My Tax accountant takes care of how I pay my taxes every quarter/every year, I just pay what I owe directly out of my account on a pre-determined date, I don't write checks for taxes anymore as the state will not except payments that way, I really don't pay a lot of attention to my accounts, I just ask the person behind the counter how much is in each account when I deposit my checks from customers, if it sounds right I walk out.

4/15/20 -We filed our tax’s electronically , jointly , and IRS has had our direct deposit information for a few years.

4/16/20 - We both were stimulated by the IRS via direct deposit.

^^^ I don’t think the two were linked Just luck of the draw

I prefer online banking , and depositing checks online through my phone as well. Everything has its pros and cons though


I use to use the individual battery operated timers . I let one timers batteries run out (lazy) and another just broke. They worked alright. I now use a cheapy contractor grade “Hunter” 6-station 110v timer for our sprinkler timers and have yet to finish linking it to our drip system. It works. I’ll have to purchase either a larger timer supporting more stations or a second one if we add any more drip irrigation.

Frankly I don't want anything to do with this money, I think it is payment for changes that are going to be forced on us very soon, one of them is to get rid of $$$$, I don't think I am going to like what I see in a year or two, I do not think this is not going to end well for the average Joe.

This is what I did this morning, I made this automatic watering timer setup, next year I will likely extend the PVC setup all the way to the end instead of stopping in the middle like I did and the timer will be on every row instead of on this gang valve thing.


The hose going sideways off the top of the gang valve assembly leads to here.


And the hose coming off on the top of the photo(yellow end) leads to here, the start of the PVC system I made last year that I re-purposed here on the other side of the garden.


Every twist timer you see in these photos is going to get a battery operated timer like in the first photo, then it will all be automatic watering, I could likely do it now if I wanted to and maybe I will so I don't have to buy anymore expensive gang valves or any other valve or brass fitting, I have most everything I need already PVC fittings wise except for the PVC garden hose adapters.

100% agree on the first paragraph. The rest looks great.

wayno wrote: ↑Sat Apr 18, 2020 2:02 pm Frankly I don't want anything to do with this money, I think it is payment for changes that are going to be forced on us very soon, one of them is to get rid of $$$$, I don't think I am going to like what I see in a year or two, I do not think this is not going to end well for the average Joe.

DRIVEN wrote: ↑Sat Apr 18, 2020 3:08 pm 100% agree on the first paragraph. The rest looks great.

Agreed , Unfortunately, yes . health insurance premiums to start.

As with everything I do I get something made and then figure out how to make it better, I upgrade, then figure out a better way and upgrade again, this is how it happened on my 521 kingcab and my 520 kingcab ute.
I made my PVC pipe setup last night, and then I installed it today, but I was trying to figure out how to do the hoses without having to buy anything, so I thought about it and the hose was the only thing between the timer and the watering devises(pipes/rings), so I thought about it a while and decided to delete the hoses, it is all PVC now except the hose for the Watermelon plants and the two hoses feeding the PVC pipe system, I have just enough timers to feed 13 of the 14 sections I have set up, it appears I need one more timer. (insert face palm here)

While it won’t happen anytime soon, pvc is UV sensitive and will eventually get brittle and start cracking, usually starting at the female threaded connections, especially if it is metal threaded into plastic. I can see you put a bunch of time into this so you might want to consider painting the pipe with a UV reflective paint or something to protect it. Once it gets brittle, you can’t really repair it as it usually just shatters when you try and cut it.

I understand what you are saying, it was meant to be buried under ground, I figure the new stuff(sch40 450psi) will last for several years while the 2+ year old stuff/pipe(it might be 10 year old pipe or more) that is irrigation grade will likely get replaced next year, only the top stuff that holds the timers is under pressure, the rest is just water draining thru holes in the pipe or the rings I made with holes drilled in them, I didn't even glue that stuff together, it is just pushed together by hand, if it was under pressure it would all blow apart, that stuff will last a very long time.
I drill just enough holes in each pipe so that water gets all the way to the end, if water doesn't get to the end I start filling holes at the start of the pipe with screws to make the water get all the way to the end of the pipe.
I kinda did this in ditches, I want to just put enough water in each section to start puddling the length and then have it shut off, the bottomless containers I want to see standing water in each container and then have it shut off, some of the watering rings only have 3 or 4 holes in the ring at the start of the system, but the end rings have 5 holes in them, if one is getting to much water I put screws in the holes till it evens out like on the tomatoes and lettuce, it takes a while to set up but once it is dialed in it is no maintenance and then it is weed pulling time.
I like to graze, I used to get home from work and go out in the garden and start eating, I really like tomatoes(SunGold), Blueberries, Strawberries, Raspberries, I can eat an hour sometimes, it used to take a lot to fill me up, not so much anymore.

So I try ride my bike for around an hour or more everyday as it is low impact, so I have been riding around 3 miles or more out and back to get my heart rate up, one of the places I ride to sometimes is my friends house, he has a 521 with some of the extras, like locking gas door, locking glove compartment, and the Stainless Steel door window trim, I am always wondering if he is going to do anything with it.
Well today I rode up to his house and he was sitting in the drivers seat, I was circling in the street in front of his house and he waved to me, I rode up and stopped in front of his truck, he said he had just drove it and the brakes were dragging badly, I told him if it sits in one spot to long with the e-brake on it gets stuck, he jacked it up and I fiddled with the e-brake cable and the rear wheels freed up, I got in and pulled the e-brake and it was jammed again, he fiddled with the cables underneath and it freed up again, he got some WD40 or the like and sprayed where the cables went into the cable housings, and after a while the e-brake decided to work properly for now.
Next he told me he could not get the passenger side front brakes to bleed, I had him pump the brakes and I opened the bleeder, nothing came out, I told him to pump the brakes again and hold it, I spun the front wheel easily, so first we removed the banjo bolt, it was plugged, we cleaned it out and put it back together and still nothing came out, next we removed the right front line from the block on the firewall, I thought it was over with as the line kept twisting with the fitting, but it broke loose(lucky), but the bottom fitting where it transitions to rubber line would not break loose from the line, so we removed the banjo bolt on the wheel cylinder, removed the keeper from the frame and took the line and hose out as one piece, well the "Y" piece that the banjo bolt goes thru that has the bleeder on it was also plugged up solid, eventually we got a cotter key thru it, cleaned it up the best one can with WD40 and got it all back together without wasting the hard line, we bled the brakes and all is good except for both the fittings on the hard line are rounded now and have to be removed and installed with vice grips, but both the front brakes work now.
This truck sat for years and I helped him start it over a year ago, it has an L18 that runs awesome, it is a quiet engine, no rattling at all, I wish my work truck sounded that good, it sat for years, and yes it does have rust in the bed.
I barely got home before it got dark(really dark), but my heart was a pumping as I was going as fast as I could, an hour later my Blood pressure is 111/66, if I don't ride my bike for a few days and sit around it goes up to 120 something over 70 something close to 80 something.

My Subaru XT turbocharger arrived today, it has been on a shelf somewhere for a long time, the duct tape covering the holes has been on there a long time, it appears to have had 2 different tags on it.
The shaft spins but is kinda hard to turn, I put some oil in the oil hole and stuck a drill on it and spun it a total of maybe 10 seconds over to times spinning it, there is absolutely no play in that shaft, I don't remember how hard it was to turn the shaft on mine, but when I stuck it onto the end of my work truck exhaust pipe and it spun up, so I will likely try that with this one to see if it spins up, if it spins then I will do nothing else to it until I install it which I am in no hurry to do right now, but I bought it while it was available as I have been searching for one for a few years now, as I was so very happy with the results on my 521 kingcab diesel engine.

I could not get it to spin up, I tried 2 different ways so I have it half apart now, at the moment I cannot get the exhaust side apart, but the vane spins a lot easier now, I filled the oil passage with mystery oil and I used PB Blaster on the seam between the 2 sections, I got mystery oil all over that part also(accident), so I am going to let it sit over night, fact is even if I don't get the exhaust side apart it is where I need it to be already so that is not an issue at all.
I have never had one completely apart before so and I don't want to mess it up, especially this one as they are very hard to find, I have had them loose where I could turn the housings to where I needed them, like I said this one has sat for a long time on a shelf somewhere and it got tight like stuff does when it sits a long time, the shaft has zero side play on the intake side, I expect the exhaust side is the same.
My one I have in the truck right now sat for a long time also, but it spun up when I tested it on the exhaust on the work truck, it is starting to show black around the exhaust side like it is leaking, but it drives/works great so I will not touch it till it don't drive/work great.

Common problem on these old journal bearing type turbos was that the oil return would coke up and restrict/block it and the turbo would slowly die because the oil was not flowing very well. It was just sitting there getting hot and eventually lock up the shaft. I remember changing out plenty of early 80’s Buick V6 turbos because of this.

I don't think it was ever locked up, I just think it sat too long on a shelf, I just went out and spun it with my fingers, it is not spin it and watch it turn easy, but compared to what it was before I pulled it apart it is easy to turn now, I can spin it by grabbing that small end of the shaft with my index finger and thumb and spin it, before it was hard to turn by carefully grabbing the exhaust impeller blades and pushing/twisting.
I believe it will spin up now using my exhaust on the work truck, I will try it later.

Well it took a few hours, but I got it almost completely disassembled(didn't take the bushings out) and back together working what I think is properly, it barely spins at an idle and spins away when I rev it.
The biggest issue was on the shaft, the shaft was fine, but when I would put it back together it got tight again, so i looked at this kind of 1/16th inch thick washer, I really don't know what to call it, it was open/kind of cut in one place(supposed to be), what would happen was when that washer would compress to go into the hole it fit in the shaft got tight as this washer compressed onto the shaft, what this washer does is keep the coolant out of the intake compressor, I did all sorts of stuff to clean out underneath that washer as it is not removable, it is so thin that all I could do was stick this tiny screw driver in the gap and spin the shaft to knock all the dirt under the washer on the shaft off, then I would compress the washer with my fingers half way and spin the shaft and dirt would come out the gap, blow air on it to get rid of the dirt and do it over and over till no dirt came out the gap, it took a while but when I finished and put the shaft in and tightened it down the last time it spun freely, I put it together, stuck it on the work trucks exhaust and all appears to be good.
I do think getting oil and PB Blaster on the exhaust housing where the center section mounts onto the housing helped me separate the 2 sections, but I had to use a chisel and a bigger hammer to get them apart, I didn't have to hit it hard, but the larger hammer and tapping away all the way around got it moving a tiny bit each hit, once cleaned up it easily went back together.

The shaft was perfectly smooth, dry the shaft didn't insert or turn easy, but a little oil on the shaft made a big difference, take the shaft out and put it back in a couple times and it needed oil on the shaft again, it has zero side play in any direction, it's like new.

I really have not been doing much around here but trimming trees and figuring out how I can get most my garden back.
Here is the pile of debris from my tree trimming, none of the trees I am trimming are mine, but they are so big now they hang over my shed and garden 20 feet and rub on stuff.



I also pulled this out of the temp carport to see if I could make it into a hydraulic dump bed, well it is already a dump bed of sorts, if I pull a lever the tongue stays connected but the bed and axle pivot, but it really doesn't pivot that far, the bed needs to be higher, this is all the farther it tilts, I suppose if I backed it up some ramps it would tilt farther, but after looking at it I would have to build a whole new frame to use the hydraulic setup I have to make it an actual dump trailer.



The reason this interests me is that I am thinking about removing the car port structure(frame/tarp) in my back yard and expanding the garden to where it was several years ago, I want to get it done before the fall as like last year I want to get strawberry starts from this years strawberry plants to put in the new area, if I can use this trailer to dump the dirt instead of having to shovel it out I suspect I could get 20 yards of dirt from the front to the back with less effort, doing it with a wheel barrow works the same but I have to load smaller amounts and wheel it back there with brute strength, I don't know, maybe I can rent one of them small front loaders and get it done in hours instead of days, I plan to have whatever I need delivered although having it put in my flatbed would not require lifting it up, but 20 yards is 20 trips and it would likely cost more a yard at a time than having 20 yards delivered.

Time to retitle the thread "Around Waynos Farm".

I wish I had more room, but one works with what they got, I am not buying tickets to win the lottery so I am likely never going to sell this property and move, I just don't have the funds to buy anything with acreage nor the will to chase it either as I really dislike dealing with government agencies.
I could really use a decent sized shop, my wood shed is large enough, but if I were to enclose it and use it as a shop and the city found out they could make me remove it even though it was there before the city annexed me, so it is going to stay a wood shed(fact is I would likely have to remove it to sell the property).

So I went to this guys house yesterday to look at firewood, he was loading some on a trailer when I was there, I told him for $60.00 a cord I would likely get at least 5 cord and he loads it with his tractor.
So today after a small job I went over to the neighbors and asked him if I could use his over grown side yard to get my firewood into my back yard, I told him I would need to move some stuff next to the wall of his house and he said fine(I forgot to get photos), so I moved everything, thru a bunch of bark into a rather large pile and then I slowly mowed it with my riding lawnmower/tractor, it took a while, then I re-arranged stuff and got the wood shed ready for wood, about the time I finished it was time to go get the first load.
This is what I brought home.





This is my bump stop, I have 2 extra leafs in this 521 leaf pack, the brakes worked all right, not great but alright.



Here are the 12 rounds in my wood shed, these are large enough rounds to make it hard for me to stack them, I have done larger pieces but I am older now, two of the rounds fell on their side when I rolled them off the bed, I had to use a large piece of metal to pry it off the ground and put 2 pieces of 4X4 under it, then I was able to get it on its side so I could roll them into the shed, it is not easy to stack these large rounds, but I got them up there, this works out to almost exactly a cord.



I split them as I burn them and have for several years, some of these are so heavy I am not sure how I will un-stack them as I am getting older every day and there is a possibility of getting hurt, I have little control when they move on their own.

Well I have not worked that hard in a long time, all my muscles felt weird, they didn't ache, but sleep was restless if that is the right word all night, my joints don't ache so that is good, I guess I just have not done anything like that in a while now.
Some of them rounds are almost 4' round, and some likely weigh 300 pounds each, maybe more, I am going to try and split one in a little while so I can get stack it higher, I will go get another load this evening.