New World Datsuns...

Todays post is about exhaust.

I decided the car is getting 2.5" turbo back.

So that means I need a new dump pipe since the OEM one isnt large enough for the task.





So the other thing that arrived was a muffler! Its a Borla, because I have never heard a Borla muffler sound bad and they arent crazy expensive.

Changed my mind on which fuel filter to run. I had a filter from a early 2000s Tahoe, but it requires fittings to use and meh. So I decided to just use what the S13 guys all use, the 300ZX filter. So exciting!





Got the over flow tank mounted to my air box.




And in car

I like updates.

Gas tank...

I've been down that road. I tin snipped the top out of an S10 tank at Pick-N-Pull and welded the whole assembly in. Nice, cheap GM fuel pump. No doubt, you've got something more exotic planned.

Yes I do... I looked at a bunch of cars at the JY and decided I didnt like any of it.

I will be adding a baffle to stop fuel from sloshing backwards on acceleration.

Looking at my list of things to do, and I decided to knock out the last thing for the coolant system (well still need temp sensor...); the fan shroud!

Saw a guy on FB with an excellent idea. So I copied.

Use a sheet pan. I ordered a 18x21 pan on Amazon for $17. I quartered it and trimmed away a lot of what is not needed. My Fan is quite large so not much will be left. Luckily this pan has a steel ring going around under the lip, I was able to use this to tack all the pieces together. Now to take it to work for a first weld.

^^^^^ PHUCK that idea. I worked on it some more, then asked myself why? Its ugly and doesnt match, and the fan is a tad bit bigger...


Anyways I cracked open the transmission to see if it had a synchroed reverse or not, because reasons....

Didn't even know synchroed reverse was a thing.

Glad you scrapped the shroud.

The later transmissions got it. Since this is a KA transmission, the S14 would have had a syncroed reverse. Without a synchto on reverse it makes it a S13 transmission.

Great info! /\/\/\

Looks like you're build is making good progress. Mine will be coming back from the dead soon...

I think I just ordered the rest of the transmission parts... Yay.

And they came in! Ordered from NissanParts.cc which is the online website for a dealership in Washington. Everything single part I ordered came from out from a different Nissan warehouse/dealership, lol.

Anyways, got a couple of new nuts, A bearing that I bent, 2 rings that the manual says needs to be replaced, a shifter boot, and a 2nd gear synchro.

Dont worry, Work has started over here again.

I have actually had the KA transmission torn down since before I started work on the BMW.

Anyways, a teaser pic. I have much further along than this.

Ok I had some fun with building this transmission. Had to tear apart the CA transmission as well to get the 3rd/4th synchro hub pressed off.

Pressed it onto the transmission I am building (KA one) and I quickly realize it is way bigger than the 3rd gear synchro... damnit.

So I use the CA 3rd and 4th gears. And I got lucky. The CA transmission used the same 3 piece synchro for 2nd and 3rd, and just used the 1st gear synchro on 4th as well. Well I had ordered an OEM 2nd gear synchro and my kit came with one as well. Whew.

So I used the kits 3 piece on the 3rd, and the new OEM on 2nd. I ended up reusing the 4th synchro from the CA transmission as I could hardly perceive any wear.

New bigger synchro hub means a bigger coupling sleeve (couples hub with gear). And then I noticed the 3rd/4th shift fork from the CA transmission was steel and not aluminum...cool.

I basically use anything from the KA transmission that I could as it was in better shape. But I essentially built a Japanese spec CA transmission with a taller 5th gear.

View from Driver side:



View from Passenger side:

I like that a lot. Glad you added that last sentence because I had no idea what you were trying to accomplish.

I was going to rebuild the ka transmission and slap the CA front case on it. But then I broke a key and expensive part. So I had to borrow parts from the CA transmission which is why it's now a essentially the CA transmission with a taller 5th.

Also the CA transmission might as well not have had a main shaft input bearing. The shaft had a ton of wobble. The KA one had some.

Totally forgot to post the pic of the it back together... Still need to sort the sensors for it...

Painted it... Aluminum... but its super bright. Meh, its going under a car, and its easier to clean grease/oil off paint than raw aluminum.





I did tap the compressor housing of the turbo to a 1/8NPT fitting, for the wastegate to see boost from the source.




Also made a new bracket for the wastegate. The original one I made was ugly, but functional. Made from 1 piece of aluminum...

I put my boost gauge fitting farther down the line near the intake manifold, but mine is a diesel.
I also control my waste gate with a valve, I put a tee in the line between the compressor and the waste gate and pipe it into the cab to a valve, if I want more boost I open the valve a little and release some of the pressure, I call it a controlled leak, the bigger the leak the higher the boost, with no leak my boost is around 7/8psi if I have not messed with the waste gate adjustment.
I normally let it get to almost 15psi when getting on the freeway, but after I get to cruising speed I want it to be 4/6psi.
You buy a pyrometer gauge yet, you need one of them along with a boost gauge, I have had good luck with the Autometer 2654 pyrometer so far, I look for deals on ebay, they are not cheap, boost gauges are cheap, I believe having a needle is better than digital, but that is just me.

Everyone does at turbo, at least on gasoline engines. In fact my stock turbo has a port brazed on from factory. This is a SR20 turbo, so a slightly bigger compressor wheel. The idea is mostly it sees the most boost first, so it has the earliest chance to bleed boost off.

The Tee you have is called a Boost Controller. And yes, its a measure amount of leak. My stock wastegate is rated at 7psi (diaphragm only, without adjustment). I will get one soon...

Gasoline engines really do not need pyrometers. You have bigger issues if you have high EGTs, and you will know it.