New World Datsuns...

I did have issues with high EGTs a couple years ago, but I finally figured it out, too much fuel.
I just read a little about it, I guess the intake valves get cooled by the wet charge(Cooled by fuel) that the diesel injection into the cylinders don't have, but that said what I read tells me you should have a pyrometer, maybe a VW Passat don't need one because not a high performance engine, but what you have/are planning is a high performance engine.

Gasoline engines just dont have the same issues.

"All other factors being equal, exhaust gas temperatures will peak at a stoichiometric 14.7/1 air to fuel ratio (for gasoline) and fall off on either side of that, whether rich or lean." -http://blog.innovatemotorsports.com/afr ... -and-both/

A pyrometer on a Gasoline engine is a tuning tool. On a turbo diesel, its a safety measure.



I think this might be enough. All 304 Stainless, 2.5"

Well now I need to pull my 521 diesel engine intake/exhaust/turbo apart and move the EGT probe to the proper spot, it was a pain to get in there, and it runs so good I have not wanted to change anything.

I finished dressing up the transmission. Still need to figure out a delete plug. Sensors are in. Speedometer drive is in. Ran some silicone hose for the vent. Brand new OEM clutch fork boot. I also pressed on a new throw out bearing. And got the collar/fork installed.

Then I worked on the heater core. I needed to create some clearance for the heater hoses in the engine bay. So I spaced the heater core backwards about 1/4". So I had to modify the upper mounting tabs to allow it to slide back.

And then finally I refitted the transmission in the car. Still no clutch flywheel. I think I have decided the transmission will never be removed/installed without pulling the motor too. The upper bolts to the engine are really difficult to get to, and Im not sure if I can actually get a straight shot at sliding the transmission into the clutch/pilot bushing.

I then started looking at the exhaust. Boo. The turbo Elbow I bought wont work. Time to get my own made.





I removed the studs from the heater as they were not long enough. I did grab some longer bolts, I will weld those on.


And here is the longer slot, and I had to trim a bit off so it would locate them same.



And I stopped taking pictures.

You've really been busy.

Um, WTF. The factory oil pan fits.



I need my welder back.

It easily sits above the crossmember, and clears the steering rack okay. Now I don't remember if I took off much more material than just the width of the cutoff blade.

It fits because my crossmember is .5 inches shorter in height, and I raised up the engine for clearance to the steering rack. Well 2 things about that. The CA uses different mounts than the SR or KA, not sure what is different, but they are different (it sat on the 510 mounts just fine...). The transmission is very level in the car. So it cant be too far off.

Are you complaining about it fitting?

I'm not sure. I was under the car looking at the oild pan situation and I glanced over at the part I had cutoff. It looked like it may fit.

It was never going to fit before this cross member I made. That is why I cut it.

I do still have problems. I would need to clearance it for the sway bar. And the drain plug is pretty much right over my cross member.

I will also make sure it is a full 5qt pan too.

And it is not. Max I could fit in below the windage tray was just under 4 qts. Looked up the capacity. 3.18qts with oil filter... That seems super low, especially for a Turbo engine. Definitely going to make it 5qts. More oil means more volume to suspend crap, also more volume to wear out. Or at 3k oil changes, it should be rather clean.

I have a stock S13 CA18DE sitting here, with the stock front sump oil pan, if you want any measurements. If that's the stock sized pan, the motor looks pretty high. Most KA 510s seem to have the front sumps level with the crossmember, but then it's the first thing hitting the ground. My KA-710 sway bar hit stuff before the pan did, luckily.

I know the motor is a little high. The transmission is high too, I really didn't want to do that, but the rack forced my hand. Also why I moved the engine back in the car 3/4".

My guess is that the engine is sitting 1inch higher.

But then again. My transmission is level in the car and it's lowest point is level with the frame rails.

My goal is nothing hanging below the frame rails.
Hood closes fine.

Your on your way to getting this on the road again.

Noticed my flywheel bolts were a tad smashed. Um dont use them to rotate the engine on the motor stand...

Scored a set of ARP flywheel bolts for only $22 on ebay. Next cheapest was Summit at $46 + shipping.

Things and stuff...


The aforementioned ARP Flywheel bolts. This is a pack of 9 for some Ford Cosworth engine. I need 8 for the CA. ARP doesnt make a kit for the CA. But this works.




Realized I never had horns on the car (the original ones barely worked). So I bought these. They were pretty cheap. Slightly different sound than what the Subi guys all buy. Ill probably paint the yellow frame Black...




Hey look, I actually did something! The turbo elbow has been started. Had the welder at work do some small beads so I can actually form it. 304 stainless sucks to bend.




And I ordered a 5ft long piece of 4" diameter steel exhaust pipe... 2.5" next to it for comparison. Its for the exhaust, just not part of the exhaust.

All good stuff.

I started with clearing out the driver side floor pan. And then sketched some lines.



And then suddenly a hole.




And I finally got the rest of my old exhaust out. This is the reason why my car was so quiet. If there was another car running next to mine, guaranteed it was louder.

Hell yeah, Getting stuff done.

Took the turbo elbow to work today. I got it really well aligned after the first round of welding.




So they did a few more spot welds for me so I could manipulate it a bit more.
The ever so important paper template:




And from paper to Stainless. This was a bit odd to make. It had a slight compound curve to it. Oh, and this 304 stainless sucks to shape.

That's gonna be a thing of beauty when it's finished.

Got it back today. Full welded! The better welder welded it, but didn't back purge it. The other welder would have... I might have him beauty up the inside, plus I want some weld to make make it smoother. Smooth exhaust is fast exhaust.






Oh and got a new phone... so pictures should be looking better...