New World Datsuns...

Well I've driven the Maxima to work twice, gone about 67 miles so far since filling up the tank on the first test drive. Aside from the brakes, nothing bad has happened, although I'm going to check it out thoroughly tonight and this weekend to start addressing the little issues. Either way:

SO MUCH WIN!!! I only had it up to 110 today. It didn't take nearly as long to get there. And I like being able to zip down the on ramp and be at 85 at the same time the Subaru would be at 65. I think I need to put a turbo in the truck now. It's gonna happen. Wooshie boi noises are glorious! Still lots to do and check, but I figure it would have blown up already if it was going to. Temp stays perfect, idle is annoyed when cold.

I need to reset timing and idle air control, and then re-drive. Have a slight vibration, can't tell if it's that driveline or just normal. Not enough to stop me from going fast, just something to keep an eye on until I hash out all the details. All in all though, after it's finally running well, I'm pretty happy.

The 0.745 Works well for a 6 cylinder. I can drive through town in 5th easily at 30 and make corners in 3rd but 4.11s help this. I have a zx 5 speed out back and would like to see if I could like it but too much work to swap it.

Had my 710 to 110 years ago but speedo out 10% so really about 100. It was over 5K I think. I'm going to go back and read some of this.

DRIVEN wrote: ↑Sun Jun 14, 2020 10:40 am Might not be a bad idea to leave the heater bypassed while you shake it down and do the flushes. Heater cores frequently have thinner tubes and are great at collecting sediment. Not like you'll need it in the next 5-6 months anyway.

Matt, a word about looping the heater hoses to by pass the core in hot weather. This is uncooled water that is being sent right back into the water pump. This just puts a strain on the rad. If running this for the summer put a piece of broom handle in there to prevent circulation same as shutting the heater off.

This one has an extensive cooling system, shouldn't be any problem. It has a giant tube under the intake, and the head has giant water ports that feed it. Heater hoses are at the rear, I doubt they'll effect the water pump at all. The RB is definitely a well-cooled engine. I will hook it up sooner than later as I'd like to have a heater, but I haven't flushed the cooling system again either.

So I stayed after work today to use the hoist. Sooo much nicer to work using a hoist! Changed out the transmission oil and engine oil. First changes for both since I put her together. Fluids looked good. Switched the engine from 10w40 conventional to 10w30 full synthetic. Switch the gearbox to GL4 85w90 Stalube. I had 10w40 motor oil in it too. Shifted well with it, but shifts well with the 85-90 also. If I was going to be driving it in winter I might get the appropriate 75w90 GL4 (Redline or Royal Purple), but I've found unless you're going to the track, gear oil is gear oil. And since I'm not abusing this in that manner, regular nothing fancy gear lube should be just fine.

And on the way home tonight, there was a silver R32 Golf. And as luck would have it, we both touched at the light when it turned green. And I'm happy to say, Wynona is faster than an R32 Golf with a big front mount intercooler. Just barely, but still faster. Not sure what version or hp, but he was actually super cool and we talked for a bit in the lane. He was actually excited to see the Datsun walk away from him. All in all, I'd say that makes for a pretty good Friday afternoon.

Tomorrow I'm going to attempt idle correction and timing adjustment, and probably a coolant flush, maybe hook up the heater core lines, one more flush should be all I need to get the sediment out. May try to get the interior buttoned up, oh, and I need to hook up the oil pressure gauge so that at least works. I should bring my tools and go back to work, f me the hoist is so much easier to get to things. Especially because a lot of stuff on the RB is easier to get at from below than up top.

Oh, and I need to put a very slight spacer on the PS pump pulley. It's just a hair out of alignment. Found it jumped a rib recently and I reset it today but it squeals on start up now. Checked it while running and for whatever reason it's just a hair off.

Alright, got the radiator drained and well flushed. Lots of leftover rust water. Ran it out with the hose until it was clear. Now to get heater hoses at the store and plumb those in and hope that the heater core doesn't leak!

Ok, have the heater hoses in, system is bled, got the idle roughly set and the ignition timing set. That is a pain in the ass. Have to remove the intercooler tube and get the plate covering the coils out of the way. Then use a spare spark plug wire and disconnect the #1 coil and use the timing light that way. Originally there is a wire loop, but the Wiring Specialties harness gets rid of that. Rather wish they left the ignition module on the valve cover, but it is out of the heat in the interior now.

Anyway, I can only get idle speed correct with the AAC screw all the way in. Not correct. Going to test the connector after dinner. I jumped the AAC to make the solenoid operate when I had it out to clean it. My guess is that it's not getting good signal, or partial signal. I need to find out why. Hopefully it's not the ECU. But basically, if it's full hot, works just fine, but if I have any loads on, it can't compensate, and if I come to a stop in the morning, it dies unless I rev it. Something isn't working right.

Well son of a bitch! Guess what is included in the troubleshooting idle information for the RB20DET? Yep. A speed sensor, the function of which is to control idle when the vehicle goes below 8 kph. Which is probably exactly when I'm coming to a stop when cold. At hot it doesn't change as much. Interesting. I may need to hook up a speed sensor after all. I don't seem to have a fuel cut, wondering if it's because the fuel pump is run separate from the ecu.

Ok, so I reevaluated after the testing. I'm getting 14.46 at the battery when running, but I'm getting 14.30 through that connector. Ohms seem to be at 22.6. Allegedly ohms are supposed to be at 9-10. And the voltage shouldn't drop that much. I'm also getting 4.8 volts at the connector, which should have 6-10 volts. Either way, I think the AAC valve works fine, I can control it with the engine running by hand with alligator clips. I think there's a problem in the circuit, which is what the troubleshooting diagram shows if all the values are wrong. Which means, either they screwed up and something is bad in the Wiring Specialties harness, or more likely, the ECU is having some slight issues with idle control due to age. We shall see. I'll probe the harness from the ECU to the connector tomorrow and see if I find any manufacturing defects. Really hope I do, that will be easier than sourcing another ECU I'll likely have to order from somewhere far away, with unknown guarantees.

https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/r ... gLwafD_BwE

This seems tempting. I may look for plug and play solutions as I'm thinking about the condition of the original harness and the problem of the fuel pump driver not working either on the original ecu. Old ecus for cars that have led a less than "Sunday drive to church" life make me a little wary. At least it still works pretty well.

Ok, so I figured it out. The TPS cannot be set correctly. Correctly is about .48 volts. I have to set mine to .39 volts or it glitches throughout the rev range. What it seems to do, is instead of holding at WOT, it clicks down to midrange and drops out a bit. IF set correctly. Setting incorrectly corrects the issue but leaves the idle contact on too long. But it doesn't drop out at WOT. So I'm erring on I'd rather have it work on full power. What I'm planning on doing is rewiring it to a VG30 TPS that I can find at any wrecking yard. The only annoyance there is the old Bosch type rectangle 3 pin connector, instead of the "new Nissan" oval finned 3 prong connector. I would like to make an adapter so I didn't have to cut the harness, but it seems that style of connector is only for the component, not used as a regular connection where I can go get an end. Oh well.

Hooked up the oil pressure gauge tonight. Stayed after work again to do the Maxima oil pressure gauge can install, which was again, soooooo nice on the lift. Hooked it up just now and verified oil pressure. It responds quite slowly, but it still registers just under 45 at idle after it's been revved a bit. Even if it's not accurate, it's an idiot light with a needle. Better than nothing.

Also finally found a use for the Cresent splined wrenches (one size fits all) that my lovely mother got me a long time ago for Christmas. It's a neat idea. Lots of little splines, fit all fasteners. It's really good at stripping the shit out of any fastener that isn't already loose. But since they look cool and I hate throwing tools away, I've kept them though I never use them. But I found a double use! As a throttle cable holder! Much more effective. I wire brushed off the anodization first so it would still make a good ground. The following link shows you which kind of wrenches they are. Avoid these like the plague. They are absolutely a terrible idea unless you're using them on 1" fasteners. And even then I still wouldn't use them. Don't tell mom.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Crescent-X6-7- ... lsrc=aw.ds

So after searching for a RB20DET factory tps, they all seem to be in Japan, month out. So I've decided I will be altering the expensive wiring specialties harness as the VG30 tps is the same except the bosch rectangle plug vs. the oval. There are, however, different tps' according to manual or automatic. I assume the switch paths are different for the transmission shift points. Anyway, ordered a manual Beck Arnley from rockauto. Should be here Friday. Got the connector end locally.

I have found it's screwing up when cold. After it warms up for a while, it runs great. But try and go full throttle when even remotely cold and you get misses and hiccups, like it's going into mid-range momentarily. One thing I did notice while testing before is if I whacked the tps, I could get it to change. Pretty sure those little finger strips are getting weak and for some reason heat makes them better. It's a start anyway, I know the range of adjustment is incorrect. Once I get a new one and adjust it accordingly, I'll re-test and see if the issue is still there. I will certainly hope not!

So here's the pics from the other day changing it out. Will be changing spark plugs tomorrow AM in search of the miss/hesitation when cold.

This is 95ish Pathfinder VG30 (manual trans) TPS. There is a different part number for automatics. I haven't tried, suspect the switch is different as the auto will have different shift points for load.






















I haven't put any loom over that, only had 1/4", need some 3/8", maybe 1/2" to fit the butt connectors. I was going to solder it, but the wires were pretty close and those are heat shrink butt connectors, they should hold just fine. Wrapped them individually with wire tape as well, just to make sure. I didn't need to put the third wire in the connector, but I figured I would and just wrap it off if for some reason I ever needed it. RB only uses the top two, bottom is blank.

So I've been reading up on plugs, interestingly the stock plug is a PFR5A-11. And while I was searching, I figured out something. I forgot this ECU has a Mine's tune on it. This probably explains why I don't have a speed limiter (so it seems) without a speed sensor. Pretty sure it's disabled. I found an inquiry page I can send to Mines in Japan with information from the ecu that maybe they'll be able to tell me what's been done to it. I suspect a mild tune, probably re-mapped fuel and whatnot, no limiter, possible raise of boost, though it all seems manual to me, so unless they changed wastegate springs, I don't see how they could. Anyway, back onto the plugs.

Apparently RB engines are finicky with plugs. The stock plugs are laser platinum and super expensive as well as hard to get. All the sites say use the copper, you'll just have to change them frequently. Which if I have to change a set of plugs a year, at under $3 a plug, that's fine by me. I'm not driving the wagon in winter, just summer cruising. I doubt I'll put more than 10k miles on it. Probably much less actually. Watched some youtube videos and I see people with the same issue of cutting out, usually ends up being plugs and/or coils. Coil packs have been changed, but the plugs are Autolite iridium, and I can't remember what heat range or which version I used. But here's the kicker:

I have the Aussie R32 manual, and while the PFR5A-11 is the stock plug, the OPTIONAL plugs are PFR4A-11, PFR6A-11, AND PFR7A-11. In NGK speak, that is one option (4) heat range hotter than stock (5), and two options (6,7) colder than stock.

I'm thinking I have an Autolite 3924 iridium in, but you know what? If I cross both the 5 and 6 heat range, it crosses to the same 3924. Which tells me Autolite sucks since they don't have a different plug clearly. I put them in originally as a cheap plug for testing. Short of it is, I'll confirm I have the XP3924 in when I yank them out tomorrow and go in with the BCPR6ES-11 to start with (copper version of PFR6a-11), and then I also got a set of 5s, but not a set of 7s or 4s. Theoretically if I've done mods (intake,exhaust(better down pipe), chipped ecu) I should be using a colder plug. So theoretically the BCPR6ES-11 should be the bee's knees according to all the reading I've been doing. And if not, I'll try a few things and I have ohm specs for the ignition coils too. They're new, but you never know ordering parts off the internet. I suspect they'll be fine and it will end up being the plugs. Tomorrow will tell, I'll let you all know!

Ok, so when I pulled the plugs out, I had XP3923, which is one heat range colder than the 3924. But, if 3924 crosses to both 5 and 6 NGK, then one could extrapolate from that information the 3923 would be the equivalent of one step colder and may be a 7 heat range. Which is the last option for plugs in the NGK chart. So in went the BCPR6ES-11, and it certainly seems to run better. No hesistation when revving at only a quarter warm.

Ohmed all the coils while there, the spec for Nissan coils is .6 to .9. My coils all ohmed out at 1.1, except number 1, which fluctuated between 1.1 and 1.0. Given it's an aftermarket coil, I'm pretty certain that's within parameters for being ok.

I'll do more testing later, I'm eating lunch, it's balls hot. I think after lunch I'm going to clean the garage and try and get the wagon in the shade for doing the next bit. Supposed to be 90+ today. It's already 88 according to my thermometer.

This was the temperature when I got back in the car from hiking yesterday. Yes, satan’s nutsack hot.





Eventually you’ll get all the little niggles figured out and it’ll be ready to just rip to and fro.

I have been in 113 degrees in the shade on a trip around the USA when I was a kid, when we stopped for the day and we had paid for our spot in the KOA camp my dad walked into the middle of a stream going thru that camp and sat down, that is likely where I got that from as I do the same thing.
Anything over a 100 degrees is hot, 113 is too hot, I once lasted more than 2 minutes in a sauna that was at 225 degrees, but we worked up to that temp, there was a creek outside that was all of 50 degrees maybe and it was cold outside, had to cover my nose to breath as to not burn my nostrils, that creek water felt good to submerge ourselves in after coming out of that sauna, you didn't even have sweat on you when one was in there, it was the worst when someone threw water on the stove and the heat hit your skin.

I spent 2 hours last night screwing around with the PS pump. I figured out why the belt is off. The pump is kicked slightly inward due to there being slop in the housing or mount. Either way, I can move the pump when I lever the mounting bolt against the body, but only the front half, which kicks the ps pulley to the passenger side for slightly off kilter running. Rearranged the adjusting bracket but found I'm going to have to resort to more drastic measures. I don't know if it's just the pump or the bracket is slightly bent, but basically I'm putting washers between the block and the bracket to counter the slop twist in the pump. It's a royal pain trying to adjust that bracket without removing a ton of crap. Got washers in last night, need half thickness, like fender washers. Fortunately I have fender washers, but now I have to do it all over again. That should put it on plane with the crank pulley. Lots of dicking around bullshit. It should just mount up and work, but oh well! I'll get it. Lol Bruised fingers and cursing wins the day!

And here are the pictures from the spark plug changeout the other day, forgot to upload them.








And here's some good listening music for you!

Ok, drove to work this morning and the new TPS and spark plugs worked flawlessly. Aac still seems to be a little spotty on certain things but it's overall quite liveable. Going to work on other things first. I do notice a little more fuel smell, very slight. Going to check for leaks but may be just due to the change in plugs. Though I didn't reseal the injectors when I had it on the stand, stupid me. Probably fine.

EDIT 8-8-20 THE FPRS LISTED WILL NOT WORK!!! DON'T DO IT!! ESPECIALLY THE REAR ONE, IT'S REVERSE OF THE RB20 FLOW, DEAD HEADS FUEL PRESSURE!!

Ok, found the fuel leak. I opened up the hood and saw raw fuel puddled by the air regulator. Hmmm, air regulators don't have fuel lines! But the rear fuel pressure regulator does tee into the air regulator hose. Yep. Dribbling through the vacuum line, bad FPR. So the RB20DET has TWO fuel pressure regulators. Of course, available from Japan, in about 2-4 weeks.

I went digging through NAPA land, and then the Aussie FSM and found fuel pressure is 3.0 kg/cm2, which is 42.6 psi. Found a Nissan SR na engine has the rear version at 43 psi, it kicks around to the side in a 90. The front is semi-straight, and a D21 KA California emission model looks about right! The regular version is a 45 psi regulator interestingly enough.

So I ordered both those in from O'Reilly's, and tomorrow I'll see if they work. I'm thinking they should be the same bolt spread and o-ring size. If I'm right, I'll be super stoked to have US availability. I could just put a central regulator on, but that seems much more effort if I'm trying to keep this whole engine stock as a rock, other than the chipped ecu.

I'll let you guys know part numbers if they work.