New World Datsuns...

Well mothafucka! When I went to remove the rear FPR, guess what happened? Yep! Stripped #2 phillips! Fuck Nissan for putting screw head bolts on pressure rails when they could have used a little 6mm head. So now I've yanked out the entire fuel rail and I'm going to re-seal the injectors as well as test these new pressure regulators. Going to reseal the throttle body too apparently!

Good news is fuel injector seal kit is CRB (NAPA Echlin) 2-12076, fits KA24E truck engine, 92. 93 split year and up uses the fat body injectors. The throttle body gasket is KAE and DE and SR20, Fel-Pro 60818

Next, we're going to discuss the reason for two FPRs on this RB20DET. Apparently there are two and one FPR versions. Some say one is a pressure damper. But they both look like regulators to me. Going to check with vacuum gauge, hopefully the dead one will at least hold a slight vacuum for verification. It looks like I can likely disable one, but it if it stabilizes the fuel pulse in the rail, then it's certainly not a bad idea to retain it. Some say one is used for boost only, but that is crap in my opinion. They both have vacuum sources and at boost it will be positive pressure regardless. I suspect they account for the boost and it just doesn't matter, it still get full pressure.

Basically I'm trying to make sure I don't screw this up because it's a pain to fix once the rail is tucked back under the intake upper.

Nissans sound fun.

Yep, that's how they get you. So the KA24E D21 injector seal kit is correct for the two upper seals, but the injector cushion is not wide enough. Fucking balls. Ordered one offline, it'll be here by August 4th, which sucks. A bunch of people swear they fit, but apparently Nissan's idea of fit is different than the aftermarket or I'm missing something. Still can't find the fatter ring.

Now I think I figured it out, there are two kits. The Beck Arnley shows the insulator ring, the other kit assumes you're not going to replace the bottom insulator injector. Fucking asshats aftermarket shit.

So I ordered a kit off ebay, should have everything. I was going to try and find all the bits today, but fuck it. Instead I'm going to do house projects. This whole next week is supposed to be 96-99 degrees, which means it'll hit 100+ in the garage pretty easily. Which means I won't want to work on anything. I have the fuel lines looped with the old L28 pressure regulator, so I won't have to worry about fuel expansion.

I think while I have it all apart, I'm going to have the injectors cleaned provided the place in CDA that does it isn't closed due to covid. I doubt they are. That way I can get them spray tested and make sure they're good, especially since I had to unstick that one. By the time next week rolls around I should have my seals and hopefully it will have cooled down a bit. Then I'll reassemble. And if I get really excited, I can do one of the myriad of other things I need to do on the wagon.

EDIT 8-8-20NOOOOO!! THEY FPRS WILL NOT WORK, THE FRONT MIGHT, REAR DEFINITELY DOES NOT!!























Both of these regulators need slight tweaking to orient correctly. The rear '91 SR20DE regulator needs to be swiveled over to be inline with the rail, and the front regulator kicks towards the intake, and it needs to be straight. I recommend mounting both on the rail, then putting the ends in the vise and gently twisting. The front one I didn't do that at first, which was probably why it opened up a little crack in the flange the tube goes into. May have just been solder coming away and still fine, but I figured I'd throw a bead on it just in case. Anything else heats it up too much, too quickly. I suspect how they assemble these is by brazing the casings first, then pressing the top onto the bottom cap. Unfortunately, that means you can't do much to it for risk of getting it too hot.



The first welding excursion was without gas, which prompted me to write this on the welder.



EDIT 8-8-20NOOOOO!! THEY WILL NOT WORK, THE FRONT MIGHT, REAR DEFINITELY DOES NOT!!

Yea it helps when welding with solid core wire to use gas.

Yea, I forgot to pull the original FPR off of the CA, and I needed to do mockup with the new FPR in the engine bay. I still dont know how I removed the philips screws. I replaced with hex head, but thats awkward too.

So while I'm drinking a beer, listening to Ludacris, Run the Jewels, and Infected Mushroom and browsing facebook classifieds....I came up with this gem of a thought. My luxury seats could use a recovering with even MORE 1984 luxury. It's imitation croc skin on leather, but I'm thinking it would look pretty good on the seats of the wagon. Just down the centers, the outside edge would be left original.

And this is really good!

HRH wrote: ↑Wed Jul 29, 2020 7:52 pm So while I'm drinking a beer, listening to Ludacris, Run the Jewels, and Infected Mushroom and browsing facebook classifieds....I came up with this gem of a thought. My luxury seats could use a recovering with even MORE 1984 luxury. It's imitation croc skin on leather, but I'm thinking it would look pretty good on the seats of the wagon. Just down the centers, the outside edge would be left original.

Only if you embrace it as a lifestyle.

Look what came today!!! I thought it was going to be faded old looking, but it's GOLD, just like the car! Woot woot! Tried to adapt the original shift boot by cutting off and reinstalling, just isn't going to work. Going to get a 240sx/RB trans proper shift boot that sits up higher. I'll probably have to weld up the bottom shifter plate so it's not oval, but oh well. Getting closer to having interior!

Fuel injectors aren't back yet, tomorrow I hope. I'd like to reinstall everything this weekend and see how she runs.

Injectors are back!! Check out the flow test! I highly recommend Mr. Injector in CDA. Very pleasant fellow, love that I have flow rates before and after. Now I can go full throttle without worry of toasting a piston!

Hope it makes a difference.

Even if I can't tell a difference (and I think I will be able to) it's worth it just knowing I'm not going to have an injector failure anytime soon.

So this is interesting. Got it all hooked up, fuel pump does funny oscillation noises, won't start. Runs on brake cleaner, barely. So I hook up a pressure gauge, and guess what? Yeah, not 0 fuel pressure. 120 psi roughly. Basically the pump is just free spinning without any regulation. I reversed the lines. Same issue.

I have now come to the conclusion that these factory regulators are reverse of normal for the RB20, in that normal would return through the nipple, not the o-ring fitting. These go through the nipple first on both sides, then feed into the fuel rail, though one side is feed, one is return. Either way, I think I've just figured out this isn't going to work. I already stole the gauge off Betty White's FPR. Now I'm thinking I may just use the regulators I've already gotten, and put in an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Rather expensive for essentially a diverter tube, but I can't return the one since I welded on it, and the other is bent in a different shape, so that was a fun little expensive experiment.

I'm betting it's going to be easier to convert it to a 1 regulator system than it is to get the factory fprs, but we shall see. So much for keeping it factory.

That is too bad, although I am not sure I totally understand what you said I do understand it did not work and modified parts cannot be returned.
What is your blood pressure lately, you want it to be 120/80 or less, better for it to be 115/60 something or low 70s, high blood pressure causes plugged veins/arteries.