New World Datsuns...

So I think I'll start a build thread to get me motivated. I got Betty White running on 4-30-16. And ever since, she's been running pig-rich. Swapped in an L28ET from an '83 280zx, minus all the air bleed stuff. And I've fiddled with the AFM to the ends of the earth and then let it sit for a while. And today I decided to pick it back up, assuming I could get it not-pig rich. Nope. But I did start investigating more on the internet and of course the two pieces of information I found suggested very heavily that connectors or wiring to various components were much more likely. And of course I should know that, but sometimes you get sidetracked.

Think I'll be getting out the multimeter this weekend and see if I can find a few new connectors and start diagnosing things, maybe replace a few items, test some ohms without the breakout box I'm supposed to have that probably no Nissan mechanics have anymore because who would keep such an archaic piece of shit?

But if this saves me from having to spend the money for an aftermarket ECU, then bully for me!

Testing>guessing

Guessing is faster.

^says the tech, lol.

I like the look of it!

Thanks! So do I! Now if I could only get the damn thing running correctly so I can drive it! Dicked around with it last night, replaced the head temp sensor connector. Still running pig rich. However, I was able to fiddle with the flapper wheel and tweak it to be stoich. It's fully one click on the sweep path too high. Adjusting the clock wheel isn't enough to suck it down. Debating trying to lower the throttle plate, but I suspect it's already as low as it will go assuming no one has ever played with it.

Also need to fiddle with the air bleed I don't have hooked up. Tried to hook it up again last night and it doesn't seem to be getting power. Really need to just do the aftermarket system. My Datsun guru was more receptive to the idea yesterday after he got over his crappy weekend, so that's good. Still, if I can get the original system to work well enough to use it for autocross I'd be quite happy.

Alright, finally procured a different system for the turbo car. Got an older Motec, made for rally racing. Completely sealed fuel controller, which should work just fine since I can use the existing non-matchbox matchbox found on the turbo z. I'll probably end up hooking up a MSD to it so I can have a rev limiter too. I'm sure it will be awhile before I get it going. Want to finish up the wagon first, then the Z car is on the list.

go faster

Lol. I need a proper garage. Heated, with more space, and without wife Rose says over my shoulder.

Your garage looked decent to me. Wood stove if I recall. I understand one project at a time though.

It's pretty good, but the wagon just barely fits. I have about 2 feet in front of the bumper in which to work. Not enough. It's a lot better than no garage, but I really wish I would have done a summer insulation project in it also. Have to heat the wood stove up all day to get it comfortable when it really gets cold out.

Does your wood stove have a fan?
Do you have a fan blowing on it if it has no fan?
To make more room in front you can take a thick tarp or some other material and make a drape to cover the open garage door, you can then back the vehicle up a little into the drape and still have heat.

So my Datsun guru is incorrect. It's not fully-sealed, but it could be if RTV was used. Definitely a durable unit. It's from 1990, the first ECU Motec made. But hey, cheap is good, and it should still function perfectly. It's 7 years newer than the L28T, right?!

Motec is a solid brand. Have fun.

Ok, so I'm wiring up the MoTec 1989 period correct version. The problem is the dizzy is CAS on the L28ET. However, I did some digging and while it's serrated tooth for the drive spindle, the regular L28 drive spindle is the same length, etc. So I can use the old style with an old style distributor and a matchbox/GM efi.

The only problem there is I'm going to need to fiddle the advance curve probably, being I don't have a knock sensor with the MoTec. Still shouldn't be a problem as it has air temp sensor, head temp sensor, and map sensor and it's good for turbo. There's no way I see to run the CAS dizzy with the early screwdriver MoTec unit, but I'll do some more digging. I'm betting I'll need to wire the matchbox, then get an ignition controller box of some sort I can adjust while tuning. This is of course, assuming my 1989 aftermarket ECU works as intended. Sure hope so!

So this is the turbo oil pickup tube, rear sump and on the passenger side of the block. Rather interesting.



And hey, look at that, there's an oil pickup in the rear that should work! I think anyway. Funny the turbo the front oil pickup isn't drilled. Suppose I'll have to blow some air through there, but it looks like fitting the turbo motor in the Maxima shouldn't be too hard just using Ugly Betty's oil pan and pickup tube.

Found I'll need a new ignition module and a retard device that's boost referenced. Found both from FAST, cheaper than MSD. Still going to be another $400 to get this thing running, but at least I should be able to start tuning after that. Got the wiring harness all set up minus the ignition portion at the moment. Wired in new injector connectors and re-secured a few connections from the previous harness.

And the post image works, sweet!!

So plans change again since I last posted that. Turbo L28 is staying in the Z. Just swapped out drive spindle and distributor, it's magnetic pickup now, which will work with the FAST HI6R-CD unit I have (MSD equivalent) and the spark retard box. Many other things to run as well but it's getting a little closer, considering I haven't worked on her in quite a while.

Full circle, see add in classifieds. Sad, but Betty White needs to run and unless I win the lottery I don't play tomorrow, not enough time and money for both the wagon and the z.

1975 280z, ex-chump car with roll cage and log book. Has '83 280zx L28 turbo engine, stock. New timing chain and gaskets. 120 compression across all cylinders when harvested from running car. Engine ran well, but way too rich, auxiliary air bleeds didn't survive the transplant. Ran it at one autocross in 2016, then parked pending fuel management repairs. Last started in 2017. Has crappy 4 speed with possible bent shift fork. Works but not very smooth. Selling due to too many projects, too many mouths to feed.

Have all parts to complete project as follows:

Motech ECU version one. (circa 1990, "screwdriver" ecu)
Harness with extended injector leads, mostly complete, just need to add a bit more wire and figure placement of ecu.
FAST ignition box with rev limiter
FAST boost retard box to work in conjunction with ignition system
KA 240sx transmission with L bellhousing clearanced to work together. Currently apart, case halves need to be put back together.
Removed optical crank angle sensor distributor and replaced with regular L magnetic that works with early Motech unit.

Has 15x8 Rotas with decent rubber, albeit a bit old. 10 gallon fuel cell, master cut-off switch, camber through slotted strut towers, all chump car legal. Handled excellently.

Have many, many spare L parts (cams, blocks, carbs, tires, wheels) though none are 280 turbo parts.

Has clear title and was even registered, though that has lapsed for more than a year. Pretty sure I marked it as non-op, so no back tabs to pay if you even care about that.

You will need a trailer. Car is not running due to distributor change for other system, brake master has failed, left a puddle of fluid in the floor pan. I can provide video of car running and competing in autocross. #1 hydraulic lifter clacks until warmed up, then pressurizes and works fine. Recommend swapping to mechanical lifters, have a spare head with them if you need it.

Asking $5900 or make an offer. Will consider keeping engine/trans/ecu/ignition boxes and selling as rolling chassis. $3000 firm for rolling chassis. Serious inquiries only. Will entertain possible trades, but not for a 1969 Saab and 3 years of three party check payments or methhead bicycles. Reasonable trades.

I don't check facebook much, so email me at faster + (the make of car, all one word, no capitals) at gmail. Thanks!