New World Datsuns...

SO to put it simply, I have a 1978 Datsun 620 KC. it's... well... for lack of a better term, A pile.

My dad bought this as a parts truck about 5 years ago, and as he drove it before he parted it, i kinda formed a bond with it. so after he parted it, I said I wanted it, and he decided to give me this rusty P.O.S, to put back together.

NOW TO THE PICTARS!

This was right after we got it.

















as you can see.... it's quite a bucket. part of the reason, I LOVE IT! the other part is cause it's a Datsun....

And this was about 2 months after we got it. still not pretty. BUT it had a mix of random pipe, and Eagle Talon exhaust so that we could actually HEAR on another while we were driving.






^why yes, i am a stanceoholic ^

and sadly.... this is how he sits now.... Heartless.... Brainless.... Dead..... for now.....
(the shitty pics to reflect him in all of his shittyness....)










^my beautiful Mercedes lights^


^the POWER, LEATHER seats that are goin in my truck once i figure how to mount them(not actual ones, just imagine this in a Ghastly Avocado green)

so here is the Idea. I'm broke as hell and Jobless, so i can't afford jack. so the Idea for NOW:

- once my dad does the Teardown of his 73' 620, i get my horribly running L20b back.
- fix floors(ish); going to be using what i can find. Old license plates, Plexiglass, shelf brackets, ect.
-Get my new lights and seats in, which came courtesy of a 1982 Mercedes 300SD (pics of such above)
-get new mirrors. as long as they aren't big ugly truck mirrors, i don't care. (yes i know the irony of not wanting truck mirrors for my truck...)
-DRIVE THE PISS OUT OF IT!

The Idea once i have Money:

about the same, just with a Carbed, single turbo, Mazda 13B (yes i know i will get crap for that.) reasoning is, small lightweight, and....

[youtube][/youtube]

thats about it. I will post more progress as it happens, which will be very seldom. BUUUUUTTTTTTT it will happen. Thank god my Girlfriend is Supportive of my truck and likes it about as much as i Love Watermelon. (which FYI is... ALOT)

and because every post deserves boobs.

Great project 620

Welcome to NWD

Sweet!!!!

Welcome aboard!!

oh damn dude. that thing is beat down. Love it! hahaha hurry up and do work, so i can enjoy the new pictures.

Scary part is I drove that thing for a while. And its LOW! I got high centered on a 2 inchish high speed bump and on some rail road tracks.

Thanks guys! hope to have this running within a year or so. *fingers crossed*

Welcome to NWD, Jay.
Glad to have you here.

Keep at that truck!

You have got your hands full with that truck! But, being a newer member myself, I think you've latched onto a bunch of good people here! Good to have you aboard!

Oh, he's from Ratsun. We know Jay.

You will notice that we all know each other.
Some from in person. Some from being in the Datsun forums together for years.
It's all aboot one thing. OK, three.

Making fun of Canada, beewbs, and Datsuns.

i love being remembered =D

Welcome

well after me bein lazy I came back to give an update. Was able to get an L16 block, got that torn apart and started cleaning up the A87 Head I plan on Using.

Pictures will come tonight. computer i am on is being a pain.

Right on, waiting on update(s)

what happen to all the pic's ?

and Spoona_Jay21

Ni10 wrote:what happen to all the pic's ?

and Spoona_Jay21

Pics fixed

New progress!

I was able to pick up an L16 from Tristan and Ifound a spare A87 square port head, so i was able to start a teardown.


^before clean up^


^LOOK AT HOW SMOOTH THOSE ARE!!!!^















Do the marks on the Con rods look normal?

the A87 I was able to find. Kinda weary about it cause it is massively corroded







So there is the latest news. trying to debate on wether i should rebuild this head, find another L head, or do a Frankenstien and toss a KA24DE head on it. Opinions?

620 looks decent man cool !

Nice job man. Keep it up.
You can get a rougher measurement to see how far the valves have sunk into the seats... look at the lash adjustment of how much is left at proper adjustment lol. It's a very common problem with early L6 heads (pre-75).
Your valves really don't look that bad (at a rough glance) but you'll have a close view of them in person with fresh eyes..
The cam... IDK ... some rust can be polished out , but from my understanding don't want to go past the case hardening. Then again some re-ground camshafts "may not" be case hardened or treated after. Food for thought.
Keep everything in order if you dis-assemble and be ohhhhh so careful of the cam-tower bearings (internal towers themselves lol).

The bearings are what you want to look at.
You can plasti gauge the assembly while it's on the crank... plasti-gauge is cheap at any auto-parts store.
You can also use micrometers ... internal and external then get a measurement off of those ... record all readings ! (document).
Mic the crank ... even if a machine shop does it for free ... it's a valuable lessen.
Check the height of the head , and check for warpage ... with a straight-edge + feeler gauges ... or a machine shop will do that for free.
Check for heavy electrolysis in the coolant passage ways , and in the timing cover (water pump directly).
Replace all core plugs ... I prefer brass ... but steel is in all reality just as good for the purpose intended.

You can have the rods checked for straightness , but chances are they'll be fine.
I put light thread-loc on the rod bolts when re-assembling as well.
The Ford 4.9 rods eventually stretch some ... lol ... they had like 30 different rod-bearing sizes last I checked ? lol (great engine !!!)

You're doing a good job. Don't get discouraged with anything that happens as we're all in the same boat at one point or another.

BLUE (DTP)

BLUE wrote:620 looks decent man cool !

Nice job man. Keep it up.
You can get a rougher measurement to see how far the valves have sunk into the seats... look at the lash adjustment of how much is left at proper adjustment lol. It's a very common problem with early L6 heads (pre-75).
Your valves really don't look that bad (at a rough glance) but you'll have a close view of them in person with fresh eyes..
The cam... IDK ... some rust can be polished out , but from my understanding don't want to go past the case hardening. Then again some re-ground camshafts "may not" be case hardened or treated after. Food for thought.
Keep everything in order if you dis-assemble and be ohhhhh so careful of the cam-tower bearings (internal towers themselves lol).

The bearings are what you want to look at.
You can plasti gauge the assembly while it's on the crank... plasti-gauge is cheap at any auto-parts store.
You can also use micrometers ... internal and external then get a measurement off of those ... record all readings ! (document).
Mic the crank ... even if a machine shop does it for free ... it's a valuable lessen.
Check the height of the head , and check for warpage ... with a straight-edge + feeler gauges ... or a machine shop will do that for free.
Check for heavy electrolysis in the coolant passage ways , and in the timing cover (water pump directly).
Replace all core plugs ... I prefer brass ... but steel is in all reality just as good for the purpose intended.

You can have the rods checked for straightness , but chances are they'll be fine.
I put light thread-loc on the rod bolts when re-assembling as well.
The Ford 4.9 rods eventually stretch some ... lol ... they had like 30 different rod-bearing sizes last I checked ? lol (great engine !!!)

You're doing a good job. Don't get discouraged with anything that happens as we're all in the same boat at one point or another.

BLUE (DTP)

thanks for the info. i will have to decypher half of what you said but what i understood is very helpful =)

trust me, Being discouraged when building up this truck, isn't possible for me. i love it, and hope to still have it when i have grand kids.

lol .. no problem ... just ask me where I wasn't clear on my previous and I'll try to help.... with less gibberish of course
That's an awesome attitude to have man ... really +1 for you ... and am glad to hear it !!!

Also make dang sure the head-bolt holes are chased (cleaned) and inspected ... some are half-way marred or even ready to strip out ! (giggidity).

In fact clean all bolts , studs , holes ... it takes a lot of time but the result is well worth it (like we're suppose to anyways right ? lol)
I use some anti-seize ... on exhaust studs , thermostat housing bolts , valve cover , etc ,,, just a little bit goes a long ways !
I also use some "teflon sealer" (liquid) for some of the timing cover bolts , etc ... keeps the stuff from contracting moisture ... rusted in ... breaking.
For head-bolts I tend to use some other type of head-bolt teflon sealer made by "ARP" (just a little bit goes a long ways) that is sold by Baxters Auto Parts ... It's pretty decent stuff to use.

^^^ Most of this is pre-cautionary and preventative measures ... mostly opinion , and not everyone uses them.

Good luck and will be watching ... even if I don't post with me gibberish lol

Lol. Thanks man