New World Datsuns...

Anyone know the correct travel for a 240z clutch fork when the pedal is pressed? There is a z car im working on. I bled the clutch out, it moves some but i can't witch gears with the car running pressing the clutch pedal. I can put it in gear and it will move when i hit the key.

this is a guess so ------- around 9/16" to 3/4" movement. bow bow bow

1.18". My '78 620 FSM and one other 510 manual lists this.

New master new slave. Bled the shit out of the system. Only getting a half inch movement. I'll see if he can buy another one from napa instead of autozone. Those ones have given me nothing but problems in the past.

before you buy another one, check the rod length against that of the old slave. its possible(not probable, but possible) that you can just switch rods if the new one is shorter than the old one, and be good to go

Slave travel is slave travel. 1/2" of travel on a foot long rod is still 1/2" of travel.

Tim, did you bench bleed the master?
Did you adjust the pedal travel so there is only 2mm (1/16") of free play?

Didn't bench bleed anything. Didn't install any of this. i think the master was already there, just the slave was replaced. But who knows if the PO bench bled it. I didn't on my 510. I just filled it, let it run down till it came out the bleeder valve on the slave, closed it up and she was good to go.

I will try and bleed the clutch out again a few more times. Either way, it's still only a half inch of travel. I can see it moving the second the pedal is pushed, it just goes half an inch. I haven't adjusted it yet, first was trying to get correct travel, air removed etc before I adjusted it.


PS, this one has a threaded rod. and you can tell its new. but i've had them be junk new from autozone in the past. I looked at all the other places and it doesn't show a threaded rod. Thinking this could possibly be the wrong one. IDK for sure tho and don't have a spare to try it out.

You bleed clutches just like the brakes, pump the clutch pedal and hold, open the bleed valve on the slave, close the bleed valve, let off the clutch pedal and repeat till you get no more air, watch the reservoir, don't let it run dry.
Air bubbles will not go down the line by just gravity, they need help.

Yeah, I just talked to the guy. he replaced the master and the slave. I've never heard of bench bleeding a clutch master. There isn't even a bleed valve... Maybe i have been lucky on the 20 datsuns I've had, but never had to bench bleed one.

I have a mega bottle of brake fluid. I'll go out tomorrow and bleed the shit out of it.

I have always opened the slave bleeder and the bubbles come out by them selves. Just to be sure I have someone pump the pedal and open and close the bleeder but just fluid pushes out by then.

All this talk of closing bleeders and pumping and opening and closing blah blah blah is not required.

Simply go to the hardware store, get a few feet of clear vinyl tube like 1/4" thick. Place over bleeder, make a loop in the tube (to trap air bubbles), open bleeder and pump away. Check for no bubbles in the clear line. Close it up, and clean up.

I do this all the time with clutches and brakes. I have yet to have it fail. Used this trick on just about all types of vehicles. Its the best when you have no one to help you, and its easier than coordinating pumping and closing/opening the bleeder.

The trick is, the MC always pushes out more fluid than it pulls back. The clear line doesnt let air in.

james and i had the same issue on his blue king cab. we bled it 50 ways from sunday, even using the tube trick. No air, still got hardly any movement. just enough to barely use the truck even. Dude bought it, replaced it, and it worked fine. turned out to be the autozone slave lol.


Ill bleed it for a bit today and see what happens. thanks jacob. like i sad before i just gravity bled them and they worked fine

Alright.

There is no air in the line. it's still only moving a half inch.

half inch is half inch, but that's all the travel I had on the slaves on my 280 and 510, both of which have a 280 slave on it. I've replaced both, neither worked with the rod that came with them, but when I swapped the old rod into em they worked perfectly. threaded rod is correct for a 240z, they were adjustable, 280z's weren't. and there are different length rods out there, which seems to be what my problem was. additionally, it seems that after 73 slave cylinders were changed, so if you have a post-73 tranny and are using a pre-73 slave, it may be a problem.

ghey. I have no way of knowing. This one is threaded so i can adjust it. It doesn't seem like it's being pushed by the slave enough.

Even if the rod was longer, adjusting it or pushing it in will cause the throw out collar to burn out no?

If you have a threaded rod it should be on this slave...



It has an external return spring to pull the clutch arm and release bearing back from the diaphragm fingers. Later slaves have the spring inside. 521s and 510s had this. The '73 and up 620s, 610s and 710s did not ,although the very earliest 610 may have the '74 definitely did not.

izzo wrote:ghey. I have no way of knowing. This one is threaded so i can adjust it. It doesn't seem like it's being pushed by the slave enough.

Even if the rod was longer, adjusting it or pushing it in will cause the throw out collar to burn out no?

What I would do now is check the pedal rod adjustment, maybe it set to far into the back of the clutch master, does the clutch pedal go all the way to the floor when you press on it?
Can the pedal be adjusted to have more throw?

I checked, there was a little adjustment left on the clamp for the clutch pedal. I adjusted it to the end (mind you there were only a few threads left to adjust). It goes all the way to the floor. And starts off near the very top. I adjusted the rubber stopper on the pedal assembly inwards to see if there was more room for the clutch pedal to come up, and there isn't.



Mike, yes. It has the spring (though the slave looks different) It does have the return spring. What I meant was, that if I adjusted the rod further out to make it so that it pushed the clutch fork more inwards to release the clutch. It would cause the throw out to be constantly touching. And that would not solve the problem, just create more. I think the problem lies in the system - with it only moving a half an inch it's not moving far enough to release the clutch.

I can start the car, but can't switch gears with it running and the clutch in / wont go into gear, but reverse grinds. I can put it in gear, and start the car and it will take off.

it looks just like the one napa has listed for a 71 Z, too. Besides the threaded rod part....

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0317158098