Lifting a B310, Gambler 500, Oregon Rally car

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Laecaon
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Lifting a B310, Gambler 500, Oregon Rally car

#1

Post by Laecaon » Fri Jul 11, 2014 4:04 pm

My friend has a B310 hatch. We are going to be rebuilding the motor in it shortly as its a bit tired. He proposed an idea which I fully endorse. Lifting the car a bit.

The idea would be simple, probably something like 2", nobbier tires, mudflaps, and a duckbill spoiler because its a hatchback...

Lifting the car is easy, just run spacers for the struts/springs. But what I want to figure out is how to get rid of the positive camber that would result. Are there any other struts that would give negative camber? Or should I just look to extended control arms? Maybe some LCAs from a newer car would work... J30? IDK. Would be dope...

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Re: Lifting a B310

#2

Post by RedBanner » Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:34 pm

Z car lcas are verry simular, but longer, ball joint is different, and the tc mounts my need one hole redrilled, or both. But I think its about as close to bolt in as I can think of, actualy, the z car tc rods are desighned the same, just they go back instead of front, so if you swapped sides it might be really close. Cool idea. The back, either spacer the spring down, or find taller springs and shocks, I bet you coule cut perches off a junk yard car and stack em in with a few tack welds. Top or bottom.
wayno » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:40 pm wrote: Everything is either tight or actually rubbing.
Taterhead » Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:29 pm wrote:Datsun gods will give you one working gauge, gasoline or speedometer; you can't have both.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#3

Post by Indy510 » Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:46 pm

NRCA's .... widen the track width an inch on each side, and add like 3 degrees of negative camber

I was thinking of using them to fix the positive camber on my 710 .... but I don't want that much camber

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Re: Lifting a B310

#4

Post by Laecaon » Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:57 pm

I thought about the nrca's. They would push he lca even further down. I don't know if that is good, they are designed for low cars, not lifted cars. I have seen pictures of s13 arms on b110 cross member. So I'm thinking a lca swap is the way to go.

and the rear probably could find some longer springs... That or machine some delrin at work...

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Re: Lifting a B310

#5

Post by RedBanner » Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:08 pm

Or just cut and extend the 210 arms. Or build your front lift blocks in a way that the strut top is as far in as possible. The further you lift it the further in you can mount the strut top. Also a s30 top hat fits right on those springs and is alot smaller diameter, and may give you more room with blocks. And the design automatically lifts it an inch. , or a b210 top hat will lift it an inch just buy bolting it in, ad to that a moog style camber plate and you have almost 2 inches of lift, and still have adjustment.
wayno » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:40 pm wrote: Everything is either tight or actually rubbing.
Taterhead » Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:29 pm wrote:Datsun gods will give you one working gauge, gasoline or speedometer; you can't have both.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#6

Post by RedBanner » Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:13 pm

Thats my vote. B210 perches and top hats, s30 springs (stiffer) and moog style camber plates, thats what I would do with my car if I was trying to get 2" of lift. Some one just had a set cheap too.
wayno » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:40 pm wrote: Everything is either tight or actually rubbing.
Taterhead » Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:29 pm wrote:Datsun gods will give you one working gauge, gasoline or speedometer; you can't have both.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#7

Post by flatcat19 » Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:53 pm

Wouldn't putting equal width spacers between the body/crossmember and struts keep geometry equal? Or less pronounced at least?

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Re: Lifting a B310

#8

Post by 510freak » Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:56 pm

But it would drop the engine(if I read that right)
Taterhead » Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:35 am wrote:[quote="Taterhead » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:41 pm


Sorry, I was channeling my inner flatcat.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#9

Post by flatcat19 » Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:58 pm

Space the engine up. I would think keeping the weight low is a benefit.
At least in lowered cars it is.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#10

Post by 510freak » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:01 pm

That would help.
But when wanting to go higher,the lower engine,will cause issues(especially on backroads)
Oil pan and rocks etc..they really dont get along that well(contrary to popular belief)
Taterhead » Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:35 am wrote:[quote="Taterhead » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:41 pm


Sorry, I was channeling my inner flatcat.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#11

Post by Laecaon » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:12 pm

Its still a car. I think the crossmember will stay at stock location. Im liking the longer LCA idea. I doubt its going to alter the rolling too much... heck, it might actually align the roll center with the center of gravity...

Im hoping the rear wont pull the axle too far forward...

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Re: Lifting a B310

#12

Post by 510freak » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:17 pm

Just keep in mind..The roll center.it will be altered,and the toe to heal will be a bit more needed.
But that said, digging a Datsun down a gravel/mountain road..its fun as heck.

tsd rallies, have more than proven that for myself :thumbs:
Taterhead » Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:35 am wrote:[quote="Taterhead » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:41 pm


Sorry, I was channeling my inner flatcat.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#13

Post by Indy510 » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:43 pm

research 510 rally cars .. they seem to be higher than stock .... would you need longer struts?

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Re: Lifting a B310

#14

Post by Laecaon » Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:15 pm

Longer struts would work. But in reality a top hat spacer and different top hats would work too and likely be cheaper... Like running 510 top hats would probably be an instant 1" height gain. So thats not a big deal.

Im not too concerned with roll center. As long we dont make it so the roll center moves outside the width of the car in corners it should be fine.

And yes longer tie rods are a must...

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Re: Lifting a B310

#15

Post by RedBanner » Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:00 am

RedBanner » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:13 pm wrote:Thats my vote. B210 perches and top hats, s30 springs (stiffer) and moog style camber plates, thats what I would do with my car if I was trying to get 2" of lift. Some one just had a set cheap too.
wayno » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:40 pm wrote: Everything is either tight or actually rubbing.
Taterhead » Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:29 pm wrote:Datsun gods will give you one working gauge, gasoline or speedometer; you can't have both.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#16

Post by Laecaon » Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:07 am

Yea, but I have 510 top hats not being used... Anything done will be cheap. Also another reason for not using T3 NRCAs.

Dont worry, Im not ignoring you.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#17

Post by RedBanner » Sat Jul 12, 2014 2:25 am

The b210 ones will allow more adjustment.
wayno » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:40 pm wrote: Everything is either tight or actually rubbing.
Taterhead » Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:29 pm wrote:Datsun gods will give you one working gauge, gasoline or speedometer; you can't have both.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#18

Post by Draynor » Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:03 pm

I still have some 710 top hats banner gave me. Will give a little camber, don't remember how much you said though banner?

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Re: Lifting a B310

#19

Post by RedBanner » Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:02 pm

Not much. "Alittle" I think they call it. I.still have those hoke made camber plates that will raise it inch and a half maybe.
wayno » Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:40 pm wrote: Everything is either tight or actually rubbing.
Taterhead » Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:29 pm wrote:Datsun gods will give you one working gauge, gasoline or speedometer; you can't have both.

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Re: Lifting a B310

#20

Post by Laecaon » Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:29 pm

Well today was the start of some work on the 210. Havent really thought about lifting it in awhile. Need to make it an OK DD first. That means Rebuilding the motor.

So the motor came out, head off. Plastigauged the bearings. Everything came back as healthy. Around .038mm on the rod bearings, and .051mm on the main bearings. Tolerance is up to .1mm... So its getting new rings and bearings. Full regasket. First time working on an A series.

I think I need to double check the jets on the 32/36 it has too, car runs fine but idk, its weak sauce on power.

Also, need an A series tranny, this one makes all sorts of terrible noises, but somehow still rotates.

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