Waynos work truck.

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Re: Waynos work truck.

#441

Post by DRIVEN » Fri Aug 30, 2019 2:16 pm

Nice! Like it never happened. All over but the check cashin'.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.

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Re: Waynos work truck.

#442

Post by wayno » Fri Aug 30, 2019 4:52 pm

I didn't like how the bumper looked, it was my best 521 bumper, so I did this.

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I did that to break up the straight lines on the bumper that were wavy, I used 2 not so great 320 bumper over riders and ground them to fit the 521 bumper, none of my extra 521 bumpers are nice anymore, so I suppose when I see one for sale I will buy it if it is not too expensive.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#443

Post by wayno » Sat Sep 07, 2019 10:46 pm

The clutch pedal started vibrating a while back at times, so I put a new collar/throw out bearing in today before it started to rain, all I did was slide the transmission back just far enough to get it out and back in, I also put one of my new clutch arm seals in it, looked good in there, it only took a few hours, it kinda funny but I figure out new ways to do this removing the transmission job as I get older, the only thing I have to do under the hood is remove the battery cable and take the top starter bolt out, the rest is done under the truck.
So far it has not vibrated since, but that would be only a 6 block drive, I think I also need to replace the rear seal now, I believe I can do that while the transmission is in the truck.
I hauled 2 yards of dirt Friday and it was vibrating about 50 percent of the time I pushed on the pedal that day, I pulled a juniper type bush out with the truck last Thursday, then Friday morning I re-did my cement block wall around the pine tree in the front yard to include where I pulled the juniper bush out.
I only had to buy 4 more blocks to create what I did, it held 2 yards of dirt.
I will take a couple photos tomorrow and post them.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#444

Post by wayno » Wed Jan 01, 2020 6:19 pm

I guess I forgot to post photos of what I did, or maybe I posted them in the around the house thread, but here they are, that wall used to be a circle around the tree, everything with darker dirt was added onto the circle.

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You can see the circle in the background of this photo and the Juniper that used to be there.

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Re: Waynos work truck.

#445

Post by wayno » Wed Jan 01, 2020 6:37 pm

OK, this is what I did today, not much but it took a while because I had to add to the bottom of the rack upright so it would be the same height as the front rack, I originally planned on putting the pocket for this on the inside of the 2X6 rear board, but that was not possible so I made a pocket on the outside, it doesn't stick out that far so I am not worried and the pocket has no bottom so any dirt will just fall all the way thru on to the ground.
This rear rack is for the hauling of my ladder around because I do a lot of gutter cleaning now, I don't pressure that much anymore and I get terrible mileage hauling the trailer around, I have been resting the ladder on the front rack and the rear piece of wood on the rear of the bed, but the front of the ladder stuck up really high that way and driving it that way was very noisy wind wise(whistling), this rack is removable but I am hoping it will just dump right past the rack upright when I dump a load of debris, I made it so it is really tight in the pocket so I don't have to listen to it rattling around.

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Re: Waynos work truck.

#446

Post by wayno » Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:46 pm

I figure I might as well put this here as the heater fan in the work truck is starting to make noise, I cleaned up and painted a heater box, it was pretty ugly when I started and I forgot to take a photo.
I was sorting thru my rattle can paints tossing weird colors I will never use when I ran across a can of black, not flat but not gloss either, it's somewhere in the middle, the front also has the best sticker I have ever seen.

This box is made for 2 different type motors, the small pattern right around the hole, and the outer legs sticking up that are the mounts for the pancake motor and the large regular type motor.
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This is a really nice sticker, maybe it was a replacement sticker.
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This is a heater box with the small motor mounted on the rear of the heater box instead of inside with a 720 fan cage mounted in the box, this combo has been the best result I have had so far, I can turn it on and adjust it for the defrosters and stand up with it on the ground and I can feel the air in my face, normally one cannot even feel the air coming out of the defroster.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#447

Post by wayno » Wed Apr 08, 2020 5:56 pm

I blew a head gasket today, and I don't have anything to make one out of right now, so I think I am going to install that fresh LZ23 I already have built in the back room and then order a 89mm L type head gasket for this engine, it made it 9 years of beating the crap out of it.
#4 cylinder blew coolant when I pulled the spark plugs out, everything else looked fine, I did not expect the issue to be that cylinder, and the ARP stud nuts were all tight when I checked them.
I barely made it home as it was blowing the coolant out of the radiator thru the coolant reservoir, I think it has been going out for a while but I thought it was boiling the SU carb bowls instead of a head gasket.
That fresh engine has been sitting for a while now, I likely should squirt a little oil in each cylinder before starting and pour oil on the rockers/cam before putting the valve cover on.
This is what I am going to use tomorrow, I am just going to spray a roof with wet and forget.

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Re: Waynos work truck.

#448

Post by wayno » Thu Apr 09, 2020 4:21 pm

The 521 kingcab didn't like towing the trailer, it doesn't have the torque to pull that trailer from a stop like my work truck has, but it is what it is, a hobby truck I built that turned out alright.
So I decided to not pull the engine, I decided to see what happened first, so I pulled the head to see what happened.
Can you figure out which cylinder was the issue??? :lol:
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Here is what happened.
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Could pinging/knocking cause something like this, I re-curved the distributor a while back and was very happy I did as it was timed at 0 degrees before top dead center, now since the mod I have it timed around 7 degrees before TDC, but when it gets warm outside it starts knocking again, not like before, but I think it is slightly knocking, I believe this has been coming on for a while, I have felt the loss of power before but it didn't continue to miss it just went back to normal until this last time, it has always happened on the freeway, I feel a slight loss of power, but it always went away when I took my foot out of the pedal, this time it did not go away.
I just got the call that my Z24 napZ head gasket is in, I did this this afternoon in case there was something really wrong with the engine, I know this truck will tow the trailer as I have towed it in the past, the injection pump has been turned up on this engine.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#449

Post by DRIVEN » Thu Apr 09, 2020 4:48 pm

Seems like a pretty decent run considering what you ask of it.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#450

Post by jtinluvr » Thu Apr 09, 2020 5:00 pm

I would guess the knock had something to do with it. It looks to me like there was a hot spot there that eventually burned its way through the fire ring of the head gasket. Does the metal part of the head gasket come close to the edge of the cylinder?

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Re: Waynos work truck.

#451

Post by wayno » Thu Apr 09, 2020 5:25 pm

It is just a stock Z24 head gasket, and I am using stock(STD) Z24 pistons in my LZ23, so how close it is to the edge of the cylinder would likely be the same as a stock Z24 engine, all the other cylinders are perfect.
Also that particular hole is a stock hole in them gaskets, the holes I made in the head gasket to be able to mount a L head on the block are on other side, so it is not my modification to the gasket that caused this.
I have beat the shit out of this engine for 8 or 9 years and it still don't burn much oil.

By the way, none of the intake/exhaust mount bolts were tight, I used my Milwaukie M12 fuel tool and it easily removed them nuts/bolts, and it appears it was not leaking, that is another possible cause to this issue, as I mentioned before I have felt this loss of power on the freeway before but it always went away when I let off, maybe it has been squirting coolant into the #4 runner, I just looked at all 4 intake valves thru the intake holes and they all look the same on the top, so it likely was not leaking, but maybe it has something to do with my erratic idle I have had for a while.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#452

Post by wayno » Fri Apr 10, 2020 7:16 pm

I normally hate making LZ23 head gaskets as it is hard to make the holes without doing some kind of damage to the head gasket, but I did it different this time, I used my Dremel and a pointed grinding tip and kinda just bored threw the gasket, and then kinda circled the hole to make it larger, it actually worked pretty good, I made 9 holes and all turned out fine.
So I put it together, put some throw away oil to clean out the old contaminated oil as I was wrong when I said no coolant got in it, plenty of coolant got in it, tomorrow I will likely change the oil again after I warm it up again.
When I first started it I could not get it to idle smoothly, it ran fine revved up, when I would pull wires 3 and 4 there was hardly any difference, I even did a compression test with a hand held test gauge and they all were 175psi+ across all 4 cylinders, I could not keep the gauge from leaking, I held it in as hard as I could but it was going off like a small gun, I had checked the valve lash earlier and it was fine, so I started looking at the carbs, while I was looking I figured out the issue, I forgot to connect the vacuum line to the power brake booster, it had a massive vacuum leak, it ran great after I connected it and it idles way better than it has for a long time, I suspect this head gasket issue was just getting worse and worse as time went by and it finally gave up the other day.
I have yet to actually drive it, it also is still smoking a lot, I am hoping it is coolant in the exhaust system and it will go away when it is all blown or turns to steam from the heat of the exhaust, if it don't go away i am not going to be happy.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#453

Post by wayno » Mon Apr 13, 2020 9:34 pm

I have drove this for a few days, it appears to be just fine now.
I have noticed one thing, for the last several years now I have had this issue, I am starting to think it might be because of this head gasket issue, when I am on the freeway after going 60+mph for a few miles I hit this slight upgrade and I have to put my foot into it to keep my speed up, in the past this slight upgrade is when the engine knocked/pinged the most, when this happened the engine would build up coolant heat/temps, I would exit this freeway and end up at a stop at this signal 90 percent of the time because of so many vehicles and the engine would not cool off, there is just no way to get thru the light without stopping, anyway once I started moving again the engine would start bucking/cutting out on hot days, it has done this for a long time now on hot days, the last few months it got worse, even on a regular day(not hot outside), I used to think it was the dual SU bowls boiling, as once I could get moving and start hitting the signals green it would clear up as air was flowing thru the engine compartment cooling off the SU bowls, well it started getting worse and last longer the last few months, well that issue has went away so far, now I understand it is not hot out, but I have not seen my engine go over the halfway mark and I am towing the trailer, it seems to be running cooler than normal all around and it is not knocking/pinging at all now, it has knocked/pinged slightly for several years, I even re-curved the distributor a few years ago and it was a little better until the last few months, I kept thinking I could hear it knocking, now I am thinking I did something to this head gasket quite a while back and the ragged edges of the fire ring were causing knocking/pinging and when I went up that hill that was the straw that broke the camels back.
The edges of the fire ring are very sharp where it failed, the metal looks like it has been like that for a long time, it doesn't look like a new failure, but I am no expert, maybe this is a new failure and that is what it looks like, but I am thinking that the fire ring has been this way for a while and it was igniting the fuel when the engine was hot starting out from that signal, it didn't buck at an idle, only when I would get the rpms up a little like when making a left turn onto a city road with a 40mph or less speed limit, first, second and third would do it the worst, once I got into 4th gear my RPMs were low and the engine was cooling off, all I know is if this bucking/cutting out issue has gone away it is/was the head gasket issue in my mind, I just cannot think of anything that happened in the past 9 years except for when it was knocking a lot.

Little back story, when I built this engine back in 2011 I timed the cam wrong, and I drove it that way for several years without knocking/pinging issues, then someone posted a photo of a properly timed cam and I checked my fresh rebuilt engine next to the computer(3 feet away), it was wrong, then I checked the 520 with the L20b, it was wrong, then I checked the work truck, it was wrong, I fixed all of them, the fresh engine has never been started but it is timed right now, the 520 had more power afterwards(I run non-ethanol premium), but the work truck runs regular and it knocked something awful, I kept retarding the timing until I was at 0 degrees and it still knocked/pinged slightly on that uphill grade when it was hot outside, then I re-curved the distributor and then I was able to set the timing at around 7 degrees, it has been that way over the last few years except for recently I think I have been hearing it knock/ping again.

I am hoping for the best now, I think I will re-visit the timing again, the L20b is supposed to be at 12BTDC, I suspect I am supposed to be around there also, since I run regular I may not be able to get there but I am going to try.

It appears my compression ratio is fine and when I drove it across town it quit blowing white smoke, i blew out or cooked off all the coolant in the exhaust system, all is good with Wayno's work truck again.
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Re: Waynos work truck.

#454

Post by wayno » Wed Nov 18, 2020 3:48 pm

OK, so I had not driven my work truck for a couple weeks as I didn't have any work, I had work Tuesday and the truck would not start, it was not even trying, I figured out if I let it sit it would hit once, after a while I figured it was likely flooded now so I removed the spark plugs one at a time, they were wet, so I got my fireplace lighter and I burned off the plugs till they were dry, and then I would light off each cylinder thru the spark plug hole so they would be dry when I put the spark plugs in, everything went fine till cylinder #4, the plug was soaked like all the rest, I burned the plug clean and then lit off the cylinder, it was amazing the amount of noise the explosion made, it sounded like a bomb went off, smoke came out from under the flatbed, I put the plug back in and it almost started, it took a couple more tries and it was running, but it was very noisy, I lifted the flatbed and this is what I found.

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It blew the muffler to smithereens, it is actually a newer muffler I had installed a few years ago, I used the 521 kingcab to get the work done that day, the 521 kingcab don't like towing the trailer, especially on the freeway, my EGTs were very high.
So this morning I unbolted the muffler and cut the tail pipe off as i could not get it out and I used a few hose clamps to make the muffler round again, I pounded it back into a shape that all the metal was touching the sections it was supposed to be touching and I welded it back together.

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It drove fine today, I have came to the conclusion that the gas in the dual SU carb bowls had spoiled and it would not run on that crap, and it just went out the exhaust and gathered in the muffler, obviously the exhaust valve was open when I lit off #4 cylinder, once it got some good gas it started trying to start but it was flooded, the pump gas they sell these days is crap, this is the only vehicle I burn pump gas in, all the rest of my gas engine trucks have non-ethanol fuel in them and they all start fine after sitting for months, so now I either have to start this truck every few days or change over to non-ethanol fuel in it also, normally I drive this truck everyday except over the 3 day weekends I have so I have had no issue with the fuel going bad.
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