Around Waynos house

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wayno
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Re: Around Waynos house

#581

Post by wayno » Sat Nov 09, 2019 11:24 am

Well that worked out well, I postponed the job I had these morning because the customer said it rained there and I don't want to walk on his dirty tile roof when it is wet, so I decided to try and make that tool I need to remove the yokes from the trans-axle case.
I made it out of 5/32" thick aluminum flat plate stock I had a piece left of, you can see in the first photo that half of it is a dark color, that is the untouched part, where it is aluminum color is where I ground the plate into a wedge, the opened end is just slightly over a 1/16" thick, only an inch and a half of the ends are wedge shaped, so an 1/8" is enough to release the yokes from the trans-axle case.

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Here is the CV joint/yoke I am trying to slide out of the case that is held in by a snap ring.

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And here is the tool I made in position.

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And here it is released.

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There is not enough room to actually pull the yokes out this way without possibly having the bearings inside fall out of position so I will leave them in position till I lift the engine a few inches, then I will release them one at a time and duct tape them so they don't fall apart one at a time, then the engine should come right out after removing the speedo drive cable from the trans-axle, it is very hard to access and this is how/when they say to pull it when pulling the engine.

I really didn't think the yoke was going to release this easy, but I have yet to get to the flywheel which from what I have been told is a major bitch to get off the tapered shaft it is mounted on, I suspect one cannot just start hitting it with a sledge as it is after all mounted on the crank, I certainly do not want to bust/break/ruin the crank, that has a special tool to release it also.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#582

Post by DRIVEN » Sat Nov 09, 2019 11:35 am

I wouldn't expect the joint to come apart on one of those any more than any other CV axle. Duct tape shouldn't matter. This actually seems like an overcomplicated shortcut. Is it possible to pop the knuckle loose and just swing the axle out of the transmission?
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.

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Re: Around Waynos house

#583

Post by wayno » Sat Nov 09, 2019 5:29 pm

The yokes are just like the drive line yoke that the Datsun transmissions have, except there are 2 of them coming out the sides, it was a lot easier to lift the engine up a few inches and release the CV joint yokes than it would be to jack up the front of the car off the ramps and put it on stands, then remove the wheels, then bust loose the upper ball joints to lean the assemblies away from the trans-axle, plus the book says one has to remove bump stops also, over all it is a pain to remove these engines in these cars.
I got it out today and the rear main seal has been ordered and is supposed to be here Wednesday, this car has some weird stuff like the clutch cover, I so far have not been able to get it off the flywheel, the British sports car guy looked at it also and had very little to say, he had no idea how to get it apart either, but I got the flywheel off which was easy, and I got the seal out, I drilled a hole in one side and put a screw in it and pulled it out.
Next I need to clean everything up, when a p[art goes in it is going to be clean, it may not look new, but it will be clean.
The engine out
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The engine compartment
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The CV Joints hanging out in the open
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It was not easy to get out, I had to cut the header off where it joined the rest of the exhaust system, I will add a joint there of some kind of my making, I had to get the header out of the way as there is just not enough room in the engine compartment unless I remove the complete power brake assembly/brake master, I prefer not having to bleed the brakes, the fuel pump is also in the way but I got the header past it some how.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#584

Post by DRIVEN » Sat Nov 09, 2019 5:46 pm

That is a bit odd. Admittedly, I've never worked on one of those. That's just how I usually attack a fwd car. Besides, you'll need a way to get the inner joints to pop back past those C-clips when you go back together. Didn't realize those were so different.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#585

Post by wayno » Sat Nov 09, 2019 6:19 pm

I already released the one when I tested the tool I made and it popped right back in to where I had to use the tool to release it again, but getting them yokes back into the trans-axle while lowering the engine/trans-axle back in might be tricky.
I will clean the engine bay and engine/parts over the next few days.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#586

Post by wayno » Sun Nov 10, 2019 3:59 pm

I made some progress today, it's not a great paint job, but at least I taped off the aluminum, head is black heat resistant paint, the block is just red paint close to what it had before, not the exact color, but close.

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I need some advise, my firewall has this shitty looking foam(sound deadening?), I want to just remove it as it looks like crap, what would you guys do, you have a decent alternative?

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I need to figure out the foam before I clean the engine bay.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#587

Post by DRIVEN » Sun Nov 10, 2019 4:37 pm

When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.

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Re: Around Waynos house

#588

Post by wayno » Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:33 pm

It doesn't really look like my firewall above the vertical part of the firewall but that doesn't mean it's not the right part, I have a low spot in the middle but no low spots on the sides.
Mine does have what appears to be a coating on it in a few places, but it almost looks like the foam underneath now, most of that coating is gone now and as you can see in the photos the foam is falling apart, it looks bad to me.

I also have what appears to be a lot of extra wiring that the car didn't come with, inline fuses hanging out in the open, wires spliced into other wires at the front core support that likely all are about the 4 fog lights that were added to the car in the past, I don't want to remove the fog lights as I think they look good there and they appear to be on a lot of Mini's, I personally think the wires are a little on the small side, but I see no use for them other than looks so I will not be doing anything except trying to clean them up.

I think I also need a front crank seal, the engine mount below that area was soaked with oil.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#589

Post by jtinluvr » Sun Nov 10, 2019 6:05 pm

Definitely clean up the wiring. Can be as simple as wrapping in electrical tape. Give the buyer less things to question. On the firewall, I would remove that stuff and see about having a rattle can mixed up that matches the color as close as possible. Im sure the insulation is there to try and quiet the engine noise inside the car but if your selling it you wouldn’t care and it would look so much nicer under the hood. Probably doesn’t make that big a difference anyways.

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Re: Around Waynos house

#590

Post by wayno » Sun Nov 10, 2019 7:02 pm

The car was originally green, just not quite as dark of a green as the exterior.
I will likely remove that crap tomorrow and see what it looks like underneath, I also need to really clean the area under the front engine pulley, another clue the front seal was bad also.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#591

Post by DRIVEN » Sun Nov 10, 2019 7:57 pm

I still vote for new insulation. Especially if it's only $30.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#592

Post by wayno » Sun Nov 10, 2019 9:51 pm

That insulation in that link is a 1/2" thick, the product on my firewall is over 7/8" thick without the black outer layer, but I ordered one anyway, we shall see how long it takes to get here.
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Re: Around Waynos house

#593

Post by wayno » Mon Nov 11, 2019 3:23 pm

I removed the insulation this morning, it had to be broken up/ripped apart because some stuff was mounted on top of it like the wiper motor and brake assembly.

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The foam piece, it really doesn't look much like the one in the photo that is coming.

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Here is the strap that holds the wiper motor on.

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Here is a spot that had a lot of rust, the bracket, bolts sticking up and the clutch master housing/reservoir looked bad, so bad I thought about trying to remove them, but I could not get to the inside bolt heads so I sand blasted all of it in position and then covered it with POR15, after I pressure wash the engine compartment I will likely paint almost everything green that is black in this photo.

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Then I cleaned up the header and then painted it with that black paint high heat paint they sell for barbecues.

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I have no work tomorrow so I will likely pressure wash it then and let it dry for a day and then go to Bob's paint land for a rattle can of British Racing Green paint, I am hoping not to paint much at all, maybe most the dirt will come off and leave the paint, I am looking for something close, matching it and putting it in a rattle can is very expensive, when the hood is up not much is there to see except the engine.
The engine bay wiring is a rats nest, I didn't plan on pressure washing it so my wires are labeled with tape and paper, the water will likely destroy the labels.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

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