New World Datsuns...

Well, you didn’t sink it, but it took major damage and is listing heavily. The only thing you missed is the engine in the GS. That is a 70’s vintage Suzuki T500 motor.

I have had these projects buried in the back of the garage for quite a few years and finally got a little time and motivation to drag them out and see about making some progress on them. The 2 bikes were just bare chassis and loose motors. I have now got them to the point that the motors are mounted ...

I got the whole brake system torn apart to see whats doing since they were not working from sitting for who knows how long. Truck looks to have 32k, which may be high mileage for one of these. Good news is everything came apart with a little liquid wrench and some heat. Drums look to be fine but ...

Not really sure yet. Probably depends on if I can find the stuff to at least get it running, steering, and stopping. Damn impulse buys.

FB marketplace. Need to stop browsing LOL. I’m in the process of gathering info on the little bugger. All I know right now is it’s a mid 60’s Daihatsu Hi Jet, S35 model (I’m guessing) with a 360cc 2cyl water cooled 2 stroke. It’s rusty and dinged up but not horribly so and seems to be mostly complete ...

BaT

just sold this recently and the buyer is exporting it back to Japan. That probably doesn't happen too often for them to return home.

Could it be the seam sealer you have is just old? I would go to the local paint wholesaler and buy a new tube of SEM or 3M or other name brand. Have you looked at the hot glue setup the paintless dent guys use?

Probably a little late, but SEM makes some nice seam seal products, including a self leveling product. Downside is you need their specific applicator gun which is kinda pricey. I used the self leveling stuff on my 521 drip rails and it worked great. Just taped some foam on the area so it wouldn't ...

Good to hear the wife didn’t get seriously hurt. Dealing with insurance is rarely pleasant.

Time to get that big block torque monster built.

Sweet.

I am surprised a professional paint shop would recommend a primer/surfacer as a base coat to bare metal. That is what is supposed to go on top of a etch, DTM primer or epoxy and act as a means to fill any small imperfections before paint such as sand scratches. I am at the point where I just start ...

If your going to prime bare metal, you should use either etching primer (good), 2 part direct to metal poly primer (better) or epoxy (best), at least that is my opinion. You can buy etch primer in a rattle can but the others need a gun with a big tip as they are *thick*.

Watch out, those rabbit holes can be deeeeeep!

I hate doing fork seals.

This forum is for Datsuns?

Pitot tube? LOL

Check the wire gauge. If it’s 12ga you can safely put a 20a breaker in. 14ga maxes at 15a.