Lifting a B310, Gambler 500, Oregon Rally car

[Laecaon]

My friend has a B310 hatch. We are going to be rebuilding the motor in it shortly as its a bit tired. He proposed an idea which I fully endorse. Lifting the car a bit.

The idea would be simple, probably something like 2", nobbier tires, mudflaps, and a duckbill spoiler because its a hatchback...

Lifting the car is easy, just run spacers for the struts/springs. But what I want to figure out is how to get rid of the positive camber that would result. Are there any other struts that would give negative camber? Or should I just look to extended control arms? Maybe some LCAs from a newer car would work... J30? IDK. Would be dope...

[RedBanner]

Z car lcas are verry simular, but longer, ball joint is different, and the tc mounts my need one hole redrilled, or both. But I think its about as close to bolt in as I can think of, actualy, the z car tc rods are desighned the same, just they go back instead of front, so if you swapped sides it might be really close. Cool idea. The back, either spacer the spring down, or find taller springs and shocks, I bet you coule cut perches off a junk yard car and stack em in with a few tack welds. Top or bottom.

[Indy510]

NRCA's .... widen the track width an inch on each side, and add like 3 degrees of negative camber

I was thinking of using them to fix the positive camber on my 710 .... but I don't want that much camber

[Laecaon]

I thought about the nrca's. They would push he lca even further down. I don't know if that is good, they are designed for low cars, not lifted cars. I have seen pictures of s13 arms on b110 cross member. So I'm thinking a lca swap is the way to go.

and the rear probably could find some longer springs... That or machine some delrin at work...

[RedBanner]

Or just cut and extend the 210 arms. Or build your front lift blocks in a way that the strut top is as far in as possible. The further you lift it the further in you can mount the strut top. Also a s30 top hat fits right on those springs and is alot smaller diameter, and may give you more room with blocks. And the design automatically lifts it an inch. , or a b210 top hat will lift it an inch just buy bolting it in, ad to that a moog style camber plate and you have almost 2 inches of lift, and still have adjustment.

[RedBanner]

Thats my vote. B210 perches and top hats, s30 springs (stiffer) and moog style camber plates, thats what I would do with my car if I was trying to get 2" of lift. Some one just had a set cheap too.

[flatcat19]

Wouldn't putting equal width spacers between the body/crossmember and struts keep geometry equal? Or less pronounced at least?

[510freak]

But it would drop the engine(if I read that right)

[flatcat19]

Space the engine up. I would think keeping the weight low is a benefit.
At least in lowered cars it is.

[510freak]

That would help.
But when wanting to go higher,the lower engine,will cause issues(especially on backroads)
Oil pan and rocks etc..they really dont get along that well(contrary to popular belief)

[Laecaon]

Its still a car. I think the crossmember will stay at stock location. Im liking the longer LCA idea. I doubt its going to alter the rolling too much... heck, it might actually align the roll center with the center of gravity...

Im hoping the rear wont pull the axle too far forward...

[510freak]

Just keep in mind..The roll center.it will be altered,and the toe to heal will be a bit more needed.
But that said, digging a Datsun down a gravel/mountain road..its fun as heck.

tsd rallies, have more than proven that for myself

[Indy510]

research 510 rally cars .. they seem to be higher than stock .... would you need longer struts?

[Laecaon]

Longer struts would work. But in reality a top hat spacer and different top hats would work too and likely be cheaper... Like running 510 top hats would probably be an instant 1" height gain. So thats not a big deal.

Im not too concerned with roll center. As long we dont make it so the roll center moves outside the width of the car in corners it should be fine.

And yes longer tie rods are a must...

[RedBanner]

Thats my vote. B210 perches and top hats, s30 springs (stiffer) and moog style camber plates, thats what I would do with my car if I was trying to get 2" of lift. Some one just had a set cheap too.

[Laecaon]

Yea, but I have 510 top hats not being used... Anything done will be cheap. Also another reason for not using T3 NRCAs.

Dont worry, Im not ignoring you.

[RedBanner]

The b210 ones will allow more adjustment.

[Draynor]

I still have some 710 top hats banner gave me. Will give a little camber, don't remember how much you said though banner?

[RedBanner]

Not much. "Alittle" I think they call it. I.still have those hoke made camber plates that will raise it inch and a half maybe.

[Laecaon]

Well today was the start of some work on the 210. Havent really thought about lifting it in awhile. Need to make it an OK DD first. That means Rebuilding the motor.

So the motor came out, head off. Plastigauged the bearings. Everything came back as healthy. Around .038mm on the rod bearings, and .051mm on the main bearings. Tolerance is up to .1mm... So its getting new rings and bearings. Full regasket. First time working on an A series.

I think I need to double check the jets on the 32/36 it has too, car runs fine but idk, its weak sauce on power.

Also, need an A series tranny, this one makes all sorts of terrible noises, but somehow still rotates.