long time coming 710

[devilsbullet]

Aaaand I have 5 screws I gotta drill out. Fuck.

[wayno]

OK, so I want to make sure I'm understanding what I'm reading correctly. To run rear discs I either need to run a disc/disc master, or remove the drum end residual valve from a Disc/drum master and replace it with a disc residual valve. Im assuming that using a front disc residual valve from say a 3/4 master and putting it into a 7/8 master would work? Or does it need to be from the same size master, or need to be a rear disc valve? I have 2 good 7/8 masters and a fubar'd 3/4 that I'm thinking the residual is still good in. One of the 7/8 is newly reman'd, I'd like to use it as a base but if I'm gonna need to cannibalize a rear valve I'll just get a 15/16.

So I have front disc brakes on my 521 work truck, I had to remove the residual valve from the master because it was made for drum brakes all around, but I am still using my single 521 master brake cylinder without the residual valve.
Running without a residual valve means I have to keep my rear brakes adjusted properly.
I have never heard of anyone moving around the valves with associated springs, I suppose if the spring was compressed the same as the other master it came from, it should work, but you need to know it is the same, less pressure is better than more in this situation.

[devilsbullet]

So running without one does OK on the disc side then? I had figured it would cause problems of not enough pressure. However, that would make sense as pretty much everything I've been told/read basically goes as far as saying "removed the valve" and that's it

[wayno]

So running without one does OK on the disc side then? I had figured it would cause problems of not enough pressure. However, that would make sense as pretty much everything I've been told/read basically goes as far as saying "removed the valve" and that's it

I have no residual valve in my work truck, and have not for at least 10 years, seems like something would have reared it's ugly head by now if it was going to.
But this is a 521 single reservoir master I am using with a front disc/rear drum truck.

[Indy510]

I have 4 wheel discs on my 710 coupe ... with a 280zx 15/16ths master on the 710 booster, but the front reservoir was too big so the PO used a spare 280zx rear reservoir on the front. You can check out his 1980 200sx rear disc brake install onto a stock 710 H165 axle housing in this thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34485 ... ead/page-9

The master cylinder is on the next page of that thread^^ He slipped the 200sx axles inside the 710 axle housing, and even got the 710 e-brake to work. A 7/8ths master would probably be okay, cause my pedal is fairly firm with stock 280zx front brakes/struts and 200sx rear brakes.

[devilsbullet]

Dunno how I missed that one, thought I had read all of ratsuns 710 threads. I gotta figure out what calipers are on my 510, having to replace bearings would throw a wrench in my plans lol. Guess my next move is to get a closer look at those. I'm thinking they're maxima calipers, but not sure. Can't even remember what pads I got for it last time I changed the brakes, but I do remember having to drill a hole in them so I wouldn't be left with extra parts. Thanks guys!

[devilsbullet]

Well, drivers side is out, and they were completely trashed. Called it a night to do more ball joint research cause the ones I got have a castle nut on them, and the way the ones currently on the car sit that castle nut looks like it's somewhere inside the strut

[devilsbullet]

Trying to figure out what I'm missing with the ball joints. I can't find the pinch bolt everything I've read is telling me to loosen, and where the castle nut should be seems to be inside the strut, but I know that can't be right. Any insights?

[DRIVEN]

It should be on top of the steering arm inside a pocket at the bottom of the strut tube. You'll need to separate the arm from the strut (2 bolts) and you'll see the balljoint castle nut.
...Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding the question.

[devilsbullet]

Nope, you're not. What you said makes perfect sense with what I'm seeing and what I thought was needed to be done. Just wanted to ask and confirm before pulling apart shit while praying that my normally overly destructive instincts weren't fucking with me and that I wasn't destroying something lol. Time to head back out and pull out bolts. Thanks driven

[devilsbullet]

Got it. Needed my sledge again, and to get it out of the knuckle, but it's out to where I can get at everything I need. Thanks again driven

[devilsbullet]

New ends next to old one. Slightly(like maybe 1/16 inch) shorter than the old one.

Then there's this. The one in the middle is the one that fits on the driver side. Has an L stamped on it(only one of the four with any stamp). Seems to have a slight angle change from the old one, and is slightly shorter, but I don't think either will be a big deal. However, the other new one in really, really hoping the passenger side looks like. Waaaay fucking short, and the screw for the castle nut is much smaller in diameter.

[devilsbullet]

Oh, and ball joint is out of the knuckle and new one in the knuckle. Knocked off for the night, will pick up again tomorrow hopefully

[izzo]

Lol, shitty isnt it. boy what a difference fresh ball joints / tie rods make dude. I do alignments / suspension / brakes for a living. my lord its nice having new stuff

[devilsbullet]

Wouldn't know, I haven't driven anything with new steering or suspension bits...ever. Way I look at it though is even if the parts aren't perfect, they're miles better than what was in there. And if I put it back on its feet and shit doesn't work right, I've got into the kid hits 16 at least. 18 if he's like his mother, 21 if he's like his youngest aunt, and 26 and counting if he's like his older aunt...he turns 9 this month, I got time. Otherwise I'll drive the piss out of it and have to be redoing shit right when he hits 16 lol. I should honestly redo the bushings while I'm in here, but I have more important things to find, and since the bushings are still intact and workable whereas these fuckers weren't, nor is the radiator or brake master(though once I get the right size wrench that should be taken care of) or rear axles, and possibly not the carb either(won't know until I get a radiator and try to fire it)...bushings are kinda far down the list lol

[devilsbullet]

Ball joint is back in. What a bitch that was. Neck and shoulders are killing me so I called it quits for the day. Plus I wanna spend time with the wife. She starts a new job tomorrow, we've barely seen each other the last 3 weeks cause of her old job(well, last 9 months really...)

[devilsbullet]

Also, as a side note, the bolts that came with the ball joint are much longer than the old bolts. The two closest to the tire I used the new bolts for, they stick up a ways but they don't hit anything and shouldn't unless I get into a bad wreck...in which case I won't overly care that they hit something. The two closest to the motor, on the other hand, I had to reuse the old bolts. It was an absolute nightmare getting whatever the fuck that bar is that bolts on top of the joint flange back there, and it wasn't happening with the new bolts. Can't see it in the picture, but I have one going each way on those, cause once I finally got them to go in I wasn't gonna pull the fucker back out...

[devilsbullet]

Question, do s110 struts do anything other than give a bit of a brake upgrade? Seems to be the only thing mentioned in my work time Internet perusals of random ideas

[RedBanner]

idk, could change the track width slightly, I'm sure they are not shorter

[devilsbullet]

Then I won't bother going to pull em off.