The new whip

[izzo]

Well.. Finally got one!

Needs work obviously. I am keeping the wheels and tires off my 720 and putting on here.... Needs some wrenching lol.

I will need some help with wiring at some point.. In the mean time, here's some pics... List of shit it needs tomorrow.

[wayno]

Your 720 is really nice, don't be getting rid of it till you know this is a daily.
I like kingcabs better than regular cabs myself, the only reason my work truck is not a kingcab yet is that I don't spend a lot of time in it, just to work/job site and home, I would stick with one truck for your business, everyone knows who I am by my truck.
It's great that you finally have a 521, I believe I seen that one on craigslist, there have been a lot of them on there lately.
It looks like the taillights are custom mounted in the bumper, dump that bumper and put them back to the stock position, they stick out pretty far.
Is it a 71?

[flatcat19]

Very cool. Same color as mine, minus the white stripe.

[izzo]

It is a 71 yes. King cab 720 is already gone and in Bend. I'm going to have to work double time on this to get it going asap.

[Taterhead]

Congrats on getting one. Hey it's got a rear bumper. People always seem to want a back bumper for these.


Totally dumbass question here but what is the spark plug by the carburetor for? Burn off unspent fuel?

[K_trip]

I like it, nice score!

[wayno]

Congrats on getting one. Hey it's got a rear bumper. People always seem to want a back bumper for these.


Totally dumbass question here but what is the spark plug by the carburetor for? Burn off unspent fuel?

Good eye there, I would guess it is to plug a hole around the PCV valve after some emissions were removed, that is just a guess though.

[wayno]

Congrats on getting one. Hey it's got a rear bumper. People always seem to want a back bumper for these.


Totally dumbass question here but what is the spark plug by the carburetor for? Burn off unspent fuel?

Some how I tried editing my post and quoted it instead, my bad.

[izzo]

Yeah, someone plugged the crank vent Damn it, I will be taking that out.


I'm stumped at the moment. I have spark, I doubled check the timing. I put the plugs on what I thought was the right order, heard it start for a split second... Thought maybe I had #1 wrong, so moved the wires... I was off by 1 on the timing (spark plug wires started at wrong spot, and it fired out the tail pipe. BOOOOOM). Today, Moved wires back to correct position. Double checked, have spark on all 4. Have shot some starting fluid in there... Notta,,, it has good compression.... I have suck, fuel, air, compression, but no bang......... It tried to start once.... Like you could hear it kinda trying. Let off the starter and back to notta.... If I advance the dizzy all the way or half way it will fire back out thru the carb.

[wayno]

180 out?

[Laecaon]

Set to tdc compression. Where the rotor points is gonna be your number one. 1342 counter clockwise. I'm sure you know this, but sometimes people just start over thinking things.

[izzo]

^^^ Doubled checked it. Every pulled plug one to verify it was TDC. Rotor pointed where it should.

Some more pics, they are in the wrong order, look from bottom up lol.... Cleaned the bed out, too.. Pressure washed it.

[Laecaon]

Pulling a plug doesn't tell you if it's compression stroke though...

[wayno]

Is it an L16 or an L20b, the rotor points in a completely different direction between the two engines, L16 is at about 10am, L20b is at 4pm, if L16 and you are putting the plug wires on like it is an L20b you will be 180 out.
Remove the oil fill cap once at where you think is TDC and make sure the number one cam lobes are at 10am and 2pm, then look at the rotor and see if it is actually pointed at number 1 plug wire.

[izzo]

Already did. Lol I know the #1 is a different spot than the 18 and 20. I pulled the number one plug out and spun it to TDC and checked rotor position. It is where it should be. I ran a compression test. That came out good.

I only tested a park on the number one. Then when I pulled the rest out.... they were black. One was broke at the tip where the wire connect . Going to install new plugs. Everything timing wise is good. Maybe the three plugs weren't sparking. Maybe the spark is weak. Maybe the carb dude gave me is junk. I'll run more tests when I get home. I have a known good weber I can try.

[Indy510]

was the spark plug plugging the crankcase breather still good? ... ..... you could have used it

I had an ignition switch (the screwdriver part) that had a weak spark while cranking, but a full 12v when the key was "ON", so it would only try to start after cranking

[wayno]

Already did. Lol I know the #1 is a different spot than the 18 and 20. I pulled the number one plug out and spun it to TDC and checked rotor position. It is where it should be. I ran a compression test. That came out good.

I only tested a park on the number one. Then when I pulled the rest out.... they were black. One was broke at the tip where the wire connect . Going to install new plugs. Everything timing wise is good. Maybe the three plugs weren't sparking. Maybe the spark is weak. Maybe the carb dude gave me is junk. I'll run more tests when I get home. I have a known good weber I can try.

I know you know this, but I am going to say it anyway, number one piston comes up too the top twice for every rotation of the rotor, the only way to visually know if it is the correct stroke is to look at the cam position on number one cylinder, the cam lobes need to be pointed at 10am/2pm, otherwise it just back fires out the carb, I hate to think how many times I have been 180 degrees out thinking I had it correct.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that the 521 wiring harness has 2 different wires going to the coil, one is a run wire, the other is a start wire, you have to have both wires otherwise it won't hit till you let off the key, a good way to check the start position power is to get a test light, connect the light to the positive side of the coil, the other end to ground, remove the starter wire off the starter so it don't turn the starter over, turn the key on and see if it has power, then turn the key to the start position and see if it still has power, if it doesn't, it is going to be a bitch to start.
I used to have a jumper wire for the mornings that went from the positive battery post to the positive side of the coil before I figured out that the coil didn't have power when I was turning it over, once started I removed the wire and never had to use it again for the whole day, I figured out that even though the coil didn't have power when turning the engine over, the engine was still turning when I let off the key and if even one cylinder hit after I let off, it would start, but that only worked when the engine was warmed up, when cold I had to use the jumper wire, it just would not start.
I know all this because I removed the start wire by accident one time a long time ago, and didn't put it back on.

[izzo]

Haha, yup... Already knew that part bro! But, always good info. Thanks man. With the number one piston at top, and timing mark at 0... The rotor pointed to where number one SHOULD have been. However, it was 180 out. Started it today on ether. But quit because that stuff is bad... Will drop the tank and clean it out tomorrow, then throw some fresh gas in it and give it another go. I assumed the distributor was installed and was clocked right... Least I know it runs. I also replaced the spark plugs. They were BAD!

Been working on a few things today... The brake reservoir was empty. I added fluid, pumped, nothing happened. Removed the rear bleeders, and some fluid came out but very little. I hooked up a hose to the brake line at the master and blew thru it, nothing... Sucked, couldn't get air to move.. Pulled the front bleeders and was able to blow/suck air.... I will have to blow the lines out.. Another possibility is the rear rubber brake line could be swollen. I will investigate more tomorrow perhaps....

I have been working on cleaning up the paint, The damn pictures will probably be backwards again but oh well. You can see the difference..


And my internet is being super slow tonight. so pics tomorrow.

[wayno]

So it was 180 out, the cam position is very important, that crank comes to TDC twice for every rotor turn, that is why you need to look at cam position.
Timing issues had my 320 down/not running for over a year, I wasn't familiar with the E1 engine, so I didn't know where TDC was, I luckily seen the TDC pointer one day when I was using a flashlight, and it started right up after timed correctly, but that was after I rebuilt the carb($325.00), put on new dist cap, rotor, points, wires, and new plugs which all cost a lot also, all because of timing issues.

[izzo]

Yeah. I didn't pull the valve cover when I did it. Didn't want to break the seal and have it leak.

Here's a preview of pics to come. This is pressure washed. Clay bar and cutting compound. Still have to Polish and wax.