The "Retired" 510

[noflers]

Oh how I love getting parts in the mail...

Not like anyone actually wants a straight body, right?

[Laecaon]

Well with it flat you are closing up the radiator. You have to have space behind the radiator. Just go take inspiration from Mishimoto.

Offset bushings, I wouldn't bother. I don't think anyone even sells them for 510s, maybe Z's. It's proven putting an early cross member into a late car will only make bumpsteer worse.

[noflers]

Those LCA bushing are already offset, just don't know if I should use them or not.
I forgot to mention that one end of each has a hex head. For adjusting it on the car?

I got the crossmember fixed. The guy actually said that what I considered to be the hardest parts were done the best (the vertical welds, since it was on the car when I did it). Since it was already tacked together he didn't use a jig. He just finished off what I hadn't welded yet, then he ground the rest down and re-welded it. All while clamped to his table. He did an excellent job.






I'm gonna let that paint dry overnight before I stick it back on. I was going to at least put more thought into the LCA bushings today, but Valentines day finally caught up with me. The woman will be home soon!

[noflers]

By "overnight", I actually meant Friday, when it's supposed to not rain.

For now I have more glamour shots of stuff to be installed soon.










And more detailed photos of the offset LCA bushings. Almost identical to these: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4170








I think I'll keep them on for now, but not for camber adjustment. I'll just use them to raise the LCA pivot point up.

[Laecaon]

NO, dont do that.

Go look at IceHouses Rack and Pinion thread on Ratsun. He has evidence to say to not do that.

[noflers]

All I saw is Icehouse talking about raising the pivot on a wagon and how it doesn't really work well, then you referenced it a page later. If the info is in those graphs of his, I'm lost on them...

[Indy510]

I've heard those are dangerous ... or at least not a good idea

[noflers]

And here I am, thinking I was gonna have a prime LCA pivot point. lol

[noflers]

So are these 6's or 9's?


I'd like to be able to use the bolts at the top of the picture, they are grade 10.9 bolts..

These are the bolts that mount the crossmember to.the frame.

[Laecaon]

It is a 9. 9T. It is an odd system from what I can tell. Based on bolt size and thread pitch. 10.9 will be fine. 8.8 would probably be fine. 10.9 is equivalent to grade 8 SAE.

[noflers]

Ah okay, I was just thinking they might be SAE grade 9, or 6... I'm getting ready for war, guys! See ya later.

[noflers]

First I pressed in the new bushings



After that I went ahead and bolted the cross member in


Then came the sway bar




I got this far before I decided the load leveler alone wasn't going to cut it


And my roommate came out and lent a hand, here is what I think is it's final placement.


Real tight fit


Now to run fuel lines, finish wiring, delete one of the radiator fans because it just isn't gonna work where it is, and weasel the intake into the mix. Smooth sailing for the most part

[noflers]

A couple things I don't see mentioned in any swap guides... If you use 620 rubber motor mounts with stock 240sx upper brackets, you will have to do something about the "locator pin" or whatever you want to call it on the rubber insulator. The notch in the 240sx bracket isn't notched far enough to allow the 620 pin to go in. I ground the pin off the rubber insulator. In hindsight, I should have notched the bracket a bit (about 1/8th" or maybe 1/4th").

There are two brackets that tie the trans to the KA motor, each has four bolts, two go in the block and the other two go in the trans. The very bottom bolt on the left side is awfully close to the steering center link. I may remove that one bolt if it looks like it needs it next time I'm under there.

The lower Rad hose will be tricky, the flex hose you see in some swaps won't work without a 90 degree elbow in the mix (at the outlet of the rad most likely).


Annnnd, a question. To get things going, can I use 5/16th" hose to replace all the old hose, looking now and all the old rubber is 3/8th". How will it do if I use the stock hard lines with my 5/16th" hose?

Bonus picture:

[DRIVEN]

Can't say. I ditched my stock fuel line and initially used Gates EFI hose from front to back. After a year or so it developed cracks on the outside all over. My Napa rep(tile) blamed the ethanol in the fuel. Even after I took a sample and cut it open revealing no internal surface cracks he still stuck to his guns. Truthfully, I have no idea what the true cause was but I didn't want to chance a leak or potential fire. I ended up buying two spools of aluminum tubing and did the supply and return lines from front to back with only a couple inches of rubber at each end. I ran 3/8" supply, 5/16" return. I also added an inline T with a pressure gauge right at the fuel rail in case I evern needed it for diag. If I were to do it again, I'd do it all the same but probably take a little more time to make it a cleaner install.
Hope that helps.

[Laecaon]

Upgrade your hardline size.

Stock application on a S13 is 8mm (close enough to 5/16") for the KA24(D)E. Its also the same on my CA18DET fyi. They have 5/16" feed and return. Our 510s have 1/4" feeds, and 5/16" returns.


Also, you should get your tank modified for a larger feed port...

[Indy510]

I have 5/16" lines for everything in my KA wagon, with an in-line fuel pump ..... I wish my tank didn't still have 1/4" outlets, but it seems to be okay for now

I just re-wired all the KA24DE wiring, with a CAN/AM box ... if you have any questions

[noflers]

That little bit about the 1/4 outlet going into the 5/16 hose was honestly my biggest concern. I'm going to stick with the stock return line and go with rubber front to back for the feed, for now. I've got 30+ feet of Dayco rubber hose I can burn through.

How about bubble flares and double up on the clamps, as far as when it comes time to run a new hard line?

[Indy510]

is it fuel injection rubber hose? ... regular fuel hose isn't safe with fuel injection. And you need the fancy fuel injection hose clamps too. I have what looks like "bubble flares" on my hard lines and one hose clamp.

[noflers]

Yeah, it's fuel injection hose. And I've got about a million clamps.

[DRIVEN]

I was going to recommend EFI style clamps but it looks like you already have those.
Proceed.