The "Retired" 510

[noflers]

I left the ECU unplugged/unpowered overnight, then today I went through and unplugged/plugged all engine harness connectors and made sure my grounds are still good. I got everything back together and checked for codes, it still had the same codes so I reset them again and tried to start it. No go, check the codes again and the only one left is the knock sensor, but it should still start after the codes have been reset even with that.

Checked for power to the injectors and they're still getting nothing...
I can see the fuel pump circuit running while I turn the key, so that's good. But still the injectors aren't working so it doesn't make a difference.

[DRIVEN]

Man, I keep checking in on this thread just hoping I'm going to see a post that it runs. Nope!

Where are your injectors supposed to get power? CanAm box? That seems to be a pretty glaring issue that shouldn't be too tough to figure out. It's never going to run if you don't.

[Laecaon]

I can take High Res photos of the Nissan official S13 wiring diagrams (4 page pull out ones), if you want.

[Laecaon]

But... injectors are supposed to be hooked up to battery power... So power at the injectors should be a given...

[Indy510]

The injector wires are super simple: each injector is connected to the only solid red wire in the whole harness. The solid red wire should start at the CAN AM box, then it splits into 3 wires: two go to the ECU, the other wire goes towards the injectors, then that wire splits into 4 wires: one solid red wire for each injector. The other wire on each injector, like yellow, goes straight to the ECU, but the red ones are all connected and should have 12V with the key on. You should also hear your fuel pump, it will be loud as soon as the key is ON for about 5 seconds.

check the red wire, in the "ECU BUP" slot of the CAN AM box: .. you can also smell the wet gas on your spark plug once you have fuel

[DRIVEN]

^Needs a like button^

[Laecaon]

Correction: all red wire should have 12V at all times.

Even in that diagram, the red wire is direct from battery.

"ECU BUP" is ECU Back Up Power. I dont know the exact electrical schematic of the Can/Am box, but if you check the diagram further down the page you will see Icehouse originally has the ECU BUP to battery. Im guessing to make things easier to manufacture, he just made it key on power. But in reality I doubt there is even a reason to run a wire to that spot on the Can/AM.

[noflers]

Those are my thoughts exactly. The Injector circuit is pretty simple and easy to follow, I'm still thinking it's bad connection/corrosion somewhere.


Jacob, if you want to take those photos maybe throw them up in the tech/electrical section here? I'm sure it will be useful to others. Is the S13 wiring the same no matter what motor?


Still have the bad knock sensor, every once in a while I get the 'all clear code 55', and the rest of the time I get the bad sensor code... I've got a new sensor and sub harness on the way. Ultra-cheap Ebay stuff. Hoping the china sensor will be worth a damn...


The fuel pump circuit is working good. The pump primes for a couple seconds with the key on, and I can see FP circuit kicking on/off while I crank.


I haven't had as much time lately to get things done because work is starting to pick back up. I still have three days off a week (not for long) so I'll have plenty of time this weekend, maybe even tomorrow if I'm lucky. My throttle pedal mod is done at least, so I can floor it when it starts

[noflers]

Oh, and amen to that, Driven.

Here's this:

https://youtu.be/oIt-8Ymq97g

P.S. It didn't die when I hit the gas pedal, I just turned the key off right after.

[Indy510]

Sounds great! ... I think my idle is a tad higher, but maybe wait till you have exhaust .... what fixed it?

[flatcat19]

Win.

[Laecaon]

Huge success!

[DRIVEN]

Sweet! Now the hard part is behind you, the rest is just time consuming.

[noflers]

I went through and re-crimped all my splices, unplugged/plugged all connectors, and quadruple checked to make sure all wires were going where they should. I think it was just a loose connection somewhere in the wiring. All seems to be okay now though, it starts up every time and has a smooth idle. Until now, all I had was the PO's word on it being a good motor, so I was really happy when I found out that it's true. I do still have the intermittent knock sensor code, but the new sensor is on the way and should fix that.

My plans now are to get the driveline shortened, hopefully next week. Does 39.5" sound about right? If anyone has a lead on an already shortened shaft in the Portland area please let me know. I'm also going to start tucking the wiring and finding a place to mount the CAN/AM box and ECU. Once that's all sorted out I can finally put the interior together, I'm honestly super excited about that.

This car needs a whole hell of a lot of body and paint work if it's ever going to be anything special. But I have a half straight car and that's better than what some people have to start with, so I've got that on my side at least.

My main priority is to get everything put back together so I can drive it down the road. Soooon!

[Laecaon]

I put a sheet of ABS under the gloove box, mounted to the bottom of the dash frame and then to the clips at the firewall. Maybe something stronger for the ECU, but there is room behind the glove box, and a lot below before you get to anywhere a passenger would kick (though a guard wouldnt be a bad idea). I think it keeps everything dry, out of danger, all your wires run there already, and easy to get to.

[noflers]

I spent a few hours this weekend tucking some of the wiring. The ECU, CAN AM, and power distribution block are mounted up to the firewall now. The exposed harness still needs to be re-wrapped.

Here's the power distribution block:

And everything mounted to the firewall, you can sort of see the CAN AM at the top right corner of the ECU:

The seats are mounted, but will come back out for floor paint/carpet:

The adjustment knobs on the side of the seat will be a really tight fit with the door panels installed, I might have to find/make new knobs.

Fuel pump, battery +, and power distribution block wiring running along the passenger side door jamb:


In the last photo you can see my method of spacing the rear of the tracks up 2”, just a section of 2”x2” steel. It also helped to keep the tracks lined up when bolting the seats in. I started with the passenger seat, and I'm glad, because for that one I flattened out the mounting tabs with a BFH. That caused the tracks to distort enough to make it a little hard to slide the seat back and forth. The driver seat is okay though. For that I put two flat pieces of steel on either side of the tab, then clamped them down with vice grips and bent away, worked great.


More to come...

[noflers]

I replaced the knock sensor today. The ECU isn't throwing anymore codes! I'll get a better video of running/revving soon.

[Taterhead]

Hell yes!

[noflers]

Project 620 shaft failed on me. This one comes out to 40" (flange face to center of u-joint), I needed 39.5". Soooo close!

510 shaft on the left, 620's on the right


It's possible that the motor and trans could come forward some, but how much wiggle room do I really need?

[noflers]

But I did start it up and rev some. Then came the belt squeal, then dead camera. I need to tighten the belt up and all will be well. Right now I'm waiting on a 3" exhaust downpipe, adjustable fan controller, and speedometer cable.

https://youtu.be/PXUZdWA5Lhc

I know the 3" pipe might be a little big, and it is, but I want that to drop down to 2.25 by the time it goes through the crossmember