The "Retired" 510

[noflers]

Yeah they are. Too bad I didn't notice they are both left side pieces. Lol

To be fair, I would have still got both if I'd known

[noflers]

Excruciating tooth pain has kept me from doing much lately. But I was able to get new camber plates marked out. I've been talking about it forever, just now getting around to it.



They will take up as much space as possible on the bottom side of the strut tops. I'll probably bolt them in, but if prefer them to be welded. I guess I could bolt now, weld later. Then maybe a beauty plate later to make use off the bolt holes and cover my heinous strut tops.

I also want to use the center section of my ebay camber plates.


I think it's DP Racing that sells just the center section which could be an option, but I'm not trying to spend too much on these.

[noflers]

Gonna give it about .5" less built-in castor.


And got this to firm things up a bit.

[noflers]

210 to refresh my rear brakes with all new components, including 280z vented aluminum drums.

Or

299 to upgrade to rear maxima calipers, and 200sx rotors. With adapter brackets from EDP.

Last time I pulled the drums off was when I first got the car. The shoes were cracked and falling apart. The drums had deep grooves, and a new click started coming from the springs recently. Anyway, that's why I'm looking into brakes.

[wayno]

I have no idea how the e-brake works on the second choice, rear disc brakes are for bragging rights, they stop just fine with rear drum brakes, but I have never had anything with rear disc brakes.
I use my e-brake every time I park my vehicles, I would not own anything that didn't have a decent park brake/e-brake.

[noflers]

Same for me as far as the ebrake goes. Gotta have it. That'll be the second half of this, getting a floor mounted ebrake handle.

I was a littlw surprised to find the rod style is different between the two MC's. 510 3/4" has this set up.





280z 7/8" has this.


From my eye ball calculations this will work fine. This is an old rod I had in the parts stash.




Stole the rubber dust boot off the old one, little thought but does alright.

[noflers]

Holy part haul. I keep getting lucky.

I went out for a driver side front door, and ended up with a door, a trunk lid, ANOTHER left side eyebrow trim, a b210 booster, factory 510 driver side mirror, and another taillight housing/lens.










At first fit it doesnt seem like the 7/8" Mayer will work in the booster. But the 3/4" master fits fine. I'll look into it but I think I'll have to use the 3/4" master if I want to use the booster.

[DRIVEN]

[noflers]

Turns out the 7/8" BMC doesnt fit because of the spacer plate. The hole either needs to be opened up on the spacer plate, or I need a spacer plate from a car with a 7/8 BMC.

[noflers]

32.5mm bore on the end of the 7/8 MC, 30mm bore on the spacer and the 3/4 MC. I opened up the hole on the spacer and it fit right in.

Now just to adjust the rod length on the brake pedal side.

[DRIVEN]

Im curious to see how this works out. I have the same parts in a box for my 510 and just never got around to doing it.

[noflers]

Funny thing is, I wasn't planning on running a booster at all. I just happened upon it and I dont see any reason not to.

My main priority was a proper functioning door. This one came with good glass and with some grease it opens and closes good. The latch mechanism works good too, lock seems iffy, but we'll see. I've still gotta put the Solex lock in it anyway. Spent a bit sanding down to original paint, and bare metal in a few spots with surface rust. This seems to be a decent primer job, but Someone also went crazy blacking out the frame, and also got all along the area where the latch mechanism and hinges are. I'm not really sure what I'll do for paint on the car so I'm not sure what I should do for this. Is plasti dip easy to remove?

[noflers]

When they say, "bolts right in". What they mean to say is, 'bolts in after you remove the studs that fix the MC mounting plate to the firewall, and bend new lines to MC.


Bolt pattern is right at least.


Good thing I plugged all the extra vacuum sources on my manifold, cause now I need one for the booster. Lol

[noflers]

Good clearance all around. Now I just need to bend up some new lines and give it a good bench bleed..

[noflers]

Even with a brake line wrench I managed to strip one of the brake line nuts on the prop block. So instead of new lines I just bent my old ones carefully. I didn't end up with any kinks so I'm happy.


Almost ready to go now. Just need vacuum and of course I dont have any hose...

[DRIVEN]

Do you have a check valve for it too?

[noflers]

Nope. But I need one. Thanks!

[wayno]

That is kinda cool how the stock plate mount bolts pattern matches the booster mount pedestal/booster, you don't have to make or drill anything to install it, I always have to make a pedestal from scratch to mount a power brake booster in my 521s.
A trick to getting the brake lines off is if one end will not move but you got the other end loose, slide a six point wrench over the fitting of the loose end all the way to the other end, now you have a closed end wrench there to get it loose, if it still strips it then vice grips are the answer, as you were planning on putting new lines on anyway.

[Laecaon]

If you want, I can mill out those Camber plates your are making, at least the slots. Should help with keeping everything straight.

[noflers]

Wayno, that little trick seems so obvious but I dont know if I would have ever done it on my own. I will next time for sure.

Laecaon, that would be rad. A couple days ago I realized cutting the slots would have to be more precise than I'm capable of here at home.