The "Retired" 510

[DRIVEN]

That's not how you buff out dull paint.

[noflers]

It's a shame it was ever repainted, but I think I know why... I think the whole front clip was replaced at some point, the paint code on the core support (white) doesn't match the paint on the roof and jambs. I also think the driver side quarter was replaced because I can see welds on the dogleg that are yellow in color, bronze? And it's a darker blue color under all the paint.

[DRIVEN]

Isn't archeology interesting?

[noflers]

Yes, unhappily interested. Especially once I dug deep enough to find this isn't a 510 at all...



Lmao

[DRIVEN]

I wouldn't be disappointed.

[noflers]

Rooftop done with 180 grit on the DA sander, everything else was knocked down with 80 or 120 on the flexi block. Got a bit more to go on the quarters and taillight panel, will probably use the DA on the quarters and smaller diameter palm sander on the tail light panel. Next will be to get the glass out and finish up the edges, then block everything with 220.








I went at that spot under the rear window with a file until the rust was gone. Ended up with a few pin holes but not terrible.

Getting more into this rocker sooo many holes.

[noflers]

Look away now if you don't like blood and all that. Only major injury this car has given me.

























According to the manufacturer, the sander was spinning about 6400rpm when it sliced through every layer of skin.

[DRIVEN]

Self cauterized. Nice.

[wayno]

I hope you had that stitched up or at the very least you at least completely closed it with a butterfly bandages as if it stays open for any amount of time it will not heal properly.

[noflers]

Oh I know all too well. I have had 40+ stitches in me. I rinsed it, cleaned with alcohol, and closed it up with a few good bandaids.

My favorite was pinching my thumb tip off in a metal folding chair at about age 6. 17 stiches to reattach that.

[noflers]

Just a few spots where stripper was the better option.









Don't know if I mentioned before, but the respray job on this car seems to have been done fairly well. It's stuck to the factory paint real nice. Makes it take forever to get off though. In hindsight, I wish I'd used stripper everywhere, but I didn't want to expose too much metal so the sander it is.

Im really starting to like the original color now that big patches are exposed. I looked into what the paint code would be, but can't remember for the life of me. Creamy pale yellow? Aha, maybe "Datsun Yellow". I just gotta look into it again. I really like the lighter yellows and blues...

More filler found in the tail light panel (left side). It doesn't seem like they used a hammer and dolly or tried in any way to straighten the taillight panel and left quarter before adding filler (it's even over factory paint on the quarter some). I've already started hammering out the quarter, losing filler chunks with every blow. But I think I'll leave the tail light panel alone, it's straight, what can I say?

[noflers]

Nearly there.





I was mistaken before, the paint code stamped on the core support is the original color of this car. 831, white.

[Laecaon]

My car was either White or Ivory stock. It was real chalking though. Run your hand on it and some of the paint would actually rub off. So then I painted it Subaru White. Now that I have to paint the front clip again, Im probably going to switch to BMW white, as it looks nicer, and there arent like a zillion revisions like Subaru did. Nissan Cloud White is real nice and bright as well, And so is the Honda Racing White.

[noflers]

I was sort of shying away from anything white, just because there's so many white ones. But I really like this 831 paint and it would be cool to stick you the og color. I like the white on your BMW better than on my Outback, it's actually one of the first things I thought about when we met up. Haha

Got this 300zx parking brake lever. The ears at the base where it bolts to the floor wasn't at a 90° angle like it is now, I'd say it was at a 60° angle or so. Guessing these are mounted on the side of the tunnel in the 300zx. The only other thing to deal with is attaching the cable from the handle to the rest of the system.


There are two rear cables in the 300zx, but only one in the 510.


So I need to make the end of that cable go through this small hole.


I ordered a 6mm (hole is 6.4mm) RH threaded rod and a clevis bracket to make this work. The 510 uses a threaded rod like I'm going to, but I think the rod is actually attached to the end of the cable.

Oh! I forgot about the rear cable. Anyone with a 510 able to show me how the rear cable is routed through the crossmember? I got this rear cable, but the hard flexi section doesn't fit very far though the holes in the crossmember. I thought they went all the way through.

[noflers]

I might be crazy, but I sorta want to use stripper on the entire car and just start fresh.

[noflers]

On second thought, I'm not doing that. Lol

Starting to get into more cracks and crevices. I swear the paint in the rain gutters is 1/4" thick, multiple rounds of stripper and white paint is still peeling. Making some progress though.

[DRIVEN]

That's not all paint in the gutters.

[noflers]

What than? Lead?

[wayno]

It's a seam sealer to keep it from leaking and rusting, paint will not do that job, there is seam sealer all over that vehicle, it's everywhere.

[DRIVEN]

Yup. Lots of seam sealer. Be sure to replace it before you lay the new paint.