Waynos work truck.

[DRIVEN]

I certainly don't blame you for not wanting to dig back into it.

[wayno]

I really do not want to put that transmission back out right now.

I used a wire wheel in my drill and cleaned that whole area off again, I noticed it was not level where all the parts come together so I used my angle head grinder with a sanding disc and made it all level/smooth, I took the leaking bolt out and put some non-hardening gasket sealer on it and put it back in, after using the sanding disc on it it did not really get wet from gear oil, I used some Brakleen on it and blew it clean with air, then I cut another piece of cork gasket and covered one side with Permatex #1 fast drying/hard setting form-a-gasket, I then did the leaky area on the transmission, the area is warm because I have 2 flood lights pointed at it, I waited like the directions said and then put the cork gasket in place and then used cardboard on the top of the 2X6 and used the floor jack to press it into a pancake and let it sit for a few hours, I then dropped the 2X6 and pulled off the cardboard, it appears to have worked, I was going to let it dry till just before bedtime and then spray it with flex-seal and go to bed.
So far I have not had one drip on the floor today even after cleaning it with the wire wheel and leveling it with the sanding disc, so even though it failed the last try it appears that every time I do something it gets a little better, before it only took a few hours to have a 4" round circle/mark on the ground, I could not park in any ones driveway while it was doing that.
I do not think the bolt sealed up very good, it looks wet, but not wet enough to drip on the ground yet.



It's supposed to be wet all week and I do not have any work lined up right now, I did what I had scheduled yesterday, so I am not in a big hurry to get this done quick.
I still need to remove the fill plug and see how much gear oil I have lost and then fill it as needed, at least the transmission is clean right now.

[wayno]

So I could not wait, I sprayed the area.





And here it is completed, I will let it dry for a day or so, I do not expect to have to use this truck this coming week, the 720 will likely be used if I need to use anything.

[wayno]

Well I do not know if this is completely fixed, but there were no drips on the ground this morning, so I will start driving it again and see if the drip spots come back.
The flex coat stuff does not dry hard like I thought it would, I do not know what I was thinking, I will keep my eye on it.

[wayno]

I check the transmission fluid level and it was fine, but I am not so sure that flex-seal was a good idea, I can get it off easy enough but a lot of effort has been done without any results that I know are going to work, I will likely drive this tomorrow if it is not pouring rain and see what happens.

[wayno]

I drove this today but it is so wet outside I cannot tell if the transmission is still leaking.
The throttle is a different story, when I start this engine in the morning the pedal seems fine, but after a while the pedal starts sticking in the rest position, around small neighborhoods(25mph) it is not so easy to drive it this way as most the time one is not pushing the pedal and when I finally do get past the sticky spot the whole truck jumps, on the freeway there is no issue, it's just in stop and start driving and slow driving in neighborhoods, I am going to try weaker springs again tomorrow as I seem to have the returning all the way fixed, if that doesn't fix it I am going to have to remove the carbs and figure out what the issue is.

[wayno]

Today when I left the house the throttle was not sticky, what was different, the choke was out, so a couple times I pulled the choke to see if it got better, it appeared to be better with the choke pulled more than half way out.
OK, so I have been fighting this throttle pedal sticky spot for a while now making no headway, today I removed the front SU carb to see which one was sticking, neither are sticking so it is not carb linkage on either SU.
I looked at the pedal again, it was not in perfect alignment, so I fixed that, it did not get any better, I stopped working on it and went inside while thinking about it, 10 minutes later I went back out and lifted the hood, on the side of the pedal shaft near where the throttle cable connects there is a hole in the firewall that this flat spot/tang covers that is on the pedal assembly when one is not pushing on the pedal/when it is at rest, it reminded me of an adjustment stopper tang, so what I did was put a bolt thru this hole from the inside, this will hold the pedal away from the firewall maybe a half inch, I still have full pedal at the carbs, and it appears I have no more sticky spot, but I have not drove it yet either as when I finished tightening that nut on that bolt on the engine side of the firewall it was getting dark so I did not drive it anywhere.

[wayno]

I received the turottle cable yesterday, in a big box???
I checked the cable out and gave it a good looking at, it looks alright, but when I move the cable back and forth in the housing it has a lot of drag, I likely will not be able to feel that drag in my foot though, but the return springs on the carbs and the pedal have to move this cable and they are the lightest springs I could find and still have it return because of that sticky pedal I had.
I have yet to drive the truck yet to see how the pedal works
The day before yesterday I put different tires on the front of this truck as my passenger side tire has wear from alignment issues, it is still sitting out there with the front wheels at a strange angle after I sat it on the ground, I suppose I should at least drive it to see if the pedal is better.



I think my camera is screwed up now, I have this dark area on the bottom left side.

[wayno]

The pedal still has a slight sticky spot after the choke is pushed in all the way, I still have a little more room before the pedal hits the foor when floored, so I will add a longer bolt in that hole with some extra washers on it to holt the top of the pedal a little farther away from the firewall as the one in there is not long enough to add any washers.
What baffles me is the stock pedal I removed had the same sticky spot and I used different cables, so I replaced the wore out pedal with a good one that bolts in and still have the same issue, but it is not near as bad, so I am making headway.
I believe the hole I am talking about that I am putting the adjustment bolt in held the switch that made the stock L16 dual point distributor work properly, maybe that hole has threads and I can made an adjustable adjuster, I will look at it tomorrow.
The engine does not always drop completely to an idle when I let off the pedal, some times I have to tap on the pedal, the springs in there now are fairly weak compared to what has been in there for years without any issues.
Also I cleaned the engine bay with brake cleaner as I had oil everywhere on the pass side, I believe it was the oil pressure sensor/sender mount threads causing this, I tightened it and started the engine and thought I seen it still leaking, so I removed it and put some pipe tape on it and mounted it again, I will have to remember to look in that area also to see if I have any oily spots, anyway when I did this I also hit the alternator with the cleaner and it started acting really weird, at first the light came on at an idle, but when I gave it the gas it went out, eventually the light stopped coming on at an idle, but now when I first start it the volt meter goes up to 14 volts an stays there, then it would quit working on the freeway, but if I pushed in the clutch and let it drop to an ilde it would go back to 14 volts until the next time it quit working again, now after I start it it goes up to 14 volts, then after just a little while the volt meter starts jumping around like it does when I turn the blinker on, that is where I am now, it jumps around a lot and some times it quits charging until I let it idle for just a moment and it goes right back to 14 volts and a few moments later it starts jumping around again, it is keeping the battery charged but I am always watching it now.

[wayno]

I drove the truck today, I noticed a whine when going down a hill today and at certain RPMs on level ground, at first I thought it was the transmission, when I got home I lifted the truck up and checked the transmission fluid again, no change, it's at the top and amber.
While I was under there I seen oil again on the pass side, so I chased this, I think it was the valve cover leaking, so I removed it, cleaned it up and put a new valve cover gasket in place, I hope this fixes the issue as I first thought it was the oil sender/sensor that was leaking, but more new oil appeared.
While I was under there letting the exhaust cool down so I could get to the transmission to check the fluid level I turned the pass side turn buckle on the tie rod one turn to bring/point the tires inward a little as the tire I had on that side was wearing on the inside, I cannot tell if it is any better right now as after I moved it I forgot to go perfectly straight and get out and look at the tire angles.
While driving it down the block and back I stopped at the intersection, I revved the engine a couple times and realized I was stopped with the clutch pressed in and in gear, when I revved it I heard that whine again, but the way it was right there at that moment the transmission input shaft was not turning, so then I though power steering pump, so instead of parking the truck with the wheels aimed straight(I forgot) I focussed on the power steering level, it was just fine, so now I am thinking something is touching something and vibrating when I rev it and am going down hill under compression, I got tired of looking at it as I do not believe it is a transmission issue, maybe I will look at it again tomorrow.
I sure hope I found the oil leak this time.

[DRIVEN]

Any chance the noise is related to that alternator that was acting strange?

[wayno]

I have no idea if it is the alternator, I do not hear so good anymore, the volt gauge was still hopping around like the new normal, I will look at it tomorrow, maybe it is close to giving up.

[wayno]

Well it is not the alternator making the noise as it gave up today, I replaced it with a different one and it is charging again, but it is still hopping around also, I am not too happy about the hopping around part.
The noise is still there, mostly I notice it on decelleration, but can hear it when I rev the engine, when I open the hood and rev it all I can hear is the engine, it's not that loud, it may have been there all along but with this exhaust it is quieter and I am hearing things I did not hear before, but I did not hear this particular whine till yesterday.
Like I told the Landa dealer about the funny smell my pressure washer was making that they could not figure out where it was coming from, I said when it blows up we will know where the smell is coming from, you should have seen their faces when I said that, well a couple days later the battery literally blew up from being overcharged, I just don't see how they could have missed that, well when and if this truck breaks I will know where the whine came from.
I also need to modify my distributor, even though I have it timed at 0 degrees, I can hear it knocking/pinging now, it is barely doing it but if I can hear it you guys would likely be coming unglued/making sour faces.

[wayno]

I forgot to take a photo of the clutch cover to show how ugly it was, the diapragm fingers are wore half way thru where the throw out bearing rides on them, it was going to eventually fail because of that.

[DRIVEN]

Wow. I'd say it's good you caught that.

[wayno]

Wow. I'd say it's good you caught that.

It's hard to say how old the clutch cover/pressure plate is, I have had the transmission out so many times over the years, I don't remember looking at it during the chassis conversion but it could not have looked much better than it looks in the photo, that conversion was only 10 months ago.
Fact is I didn't like the looks of the clutch disc and pilot bushing, that is why I bought the clutch kit, but once I got the clutch cover out into the light and really looked at it.........
The not so funny thing is that the old throw out bearing is still in there, I forgot to put the new one on.

[wayno]

I am thinking I am going to have to remove the work truck transmission again, it makes noise when decelerating in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears, I cannot tell if it makes noise in 4th and 5th gears, it doesn't make noise at an idle with the clutch out in neutral, so I am unsure about what is going on, it is not particularly loud but I can hear it and it bugs me.
My thinking is that when the 3 teeth got taken off of 5th gear it may have done something to that middle bearing, it looked good, but I could only see so much of it, so maybe this is the start of the death of that bearing, what is weird is it doesn't make noise accelerating, but this truck is not the quietest truck in the world either.
I might take apart the other long shaft transmission I have and go thru it now so it is ready when I need it, the one that was in it before the chassis change was a short shaft, the only truck I have left with a short shaft is the 521 kingcab diesel, so I shall save it for that.

[wayno]

I think I said this before, I don't think it is the transmission now, not moving, in gear, with the clutch pushed in, it still makes the noise when I rev the engine, not one of the parts in the transmission is turning this way, so it has to be something in the engine or connected to the engine, or something drive train related is touching something/rubbing on something making the noise I hear, I cannot hear the noise when I open the hood and rev the engine with my hand.
So I started looking around and found this in the photo below, it was touching before I stepped on it with my foot.

[wayno]

Well I just drove it up and down the street and I believe the noise is still there, the tailpipe is not touching now so I do not think it was the issue.
To me it is a rotating issue, since it happens when the transmission is not rotating then it must not be that, one day when it gets worse or blows up I will know what it is.
I sure do hope it has nothing to do with the new clutch cover/disc, and it does not change the noise with clutch position, I have play in the clutch rod/arm so the throw out bearing is not always turning, but I will check that again to see if something has changed.

[wayno]

I have plenty of play in the clutch rod so I don't think it is the throw out bearing, it was not dry enough nor did I have the energy to lift the whole front of the truck up to look at the gap between the exhaust head pipe and the transmission/engine, I felt up in that area and it did not seem to be hitting/rubbing on anything, but seeing it is not hitting anything is the only way, the rest of the exhaust is not touching anything.
I hate to start loosening things like the belts to see if it changes anything, the next dry day I need to take down Christmas lights for my customers and that takes priority.