Wynona the wagon's resurrection!

[HRH]

So an update for the wagon. Because of the placement of the engine and resulting water pump, the VG30 fan clutch WILL work with the RB water pump, however, it puts the fan circle above the radiator top tank, and it also provides no option for running a cross tube for water as the 910 radiator is standard Datsun and the RB20 is same side inlet/outlet.

Being I paid $200 or so for the NOS copper brass radiator initially, and another $200 to have it resealed after a few years, I'd rather use it instead of retrofitting another radiator in. Especially when I can repair this radiator instead of replacing it with a cheap aluminum and plastic unit. So I decided to get two 12" electric fans off amazon (cheap too) and I'll attach those to the radiator and that should work. Plus it will give me enough room to run a 1.25" OD 14" long tube across the front of the radiator to the top outlet. Two 90 degree bend radiator hoses will then connect it.

[Laecaon]

The reviews for those fans have me believing they are pure gold. So many reports of 3 years on without issues. They are so cheap, you could replace it 6 times over before hitting the price of a Spal.

[HRH]

Yeah, I figure for a 12" electric fan, it's pretty hard to screw that up. They've been around so long. Kinda like a cassette player. The 40 dollar version you can find now has what used to be 400 dollars of technology in it. And even if the fans die, like you said, buy another. I've never had a electric fan die, not even the 30 year old junkyard versions I use for other stuff. So if these fans only work for 10 years, I'm not too worried.

Went to the wrecking yard and got an accelerator cable out of a 97 Pathfinder, looks long enough, should work nicely. Also stole the VG33 airbox, it looks like it will fit the RB MAF nicely. I ordered an APEXi air filter pod off FRsport, not here, sent them an email to cancel the order. Again. You think I would have learned after the first time they pissed me off. I ordered that filter on June 24th. Still not even shipped! So I'll save the money on that and make a factory application work, then put a drop in KN or something in it. Or buy it off Amazon, where I'll get it in two days and it will actually ship!

Oh, interesting side note, the VG33 pathfinder airbox has a steel air horn riveted into the airbox housing, very short, but cool nonetheless!

[Laecaon]

FRSport is real interesting. And I have never had them respond to an email. But I have always gotten what I ordered and then some.

[HRH]

For some reason, I'm not sure why, when I get a reply from them, google sends it to the trash folder instantly. So I have to go dig it back out. Not sure why this happens. I've gotten stuff from them without issue, but the last 3 times I've tried to order something, a week goes by and they say, oh, it wasn't in stock. Oh, let us check for you, etc. When I order from Raw Brokerage, I get responses to emails, talk to Ricky multiple times on the phone, and generally get awesome customer service. Granted I'm actually buying stuff, but still, they give a crap. It takes a while to get being from Florida, but the communication process is much better and they generally have things in stock.

I find half the stuff I order on FRSport is out of stock. Maybe they're trying to be amazon? I don't know. All I know is I'm annoyed now and cancelling my order yet again. If they can't figure shit out, woe to them.

Also, VG33 accelerator cable works awesome! FIts the 910 pedal, had to drill a slightly larger hole pattern for the mount, but only just outside the existing holes through the firewall which are tapped for 6x1.00 thread. I actually drilled and tapped the new holes because it was easier than trying to secure a nut on the back. Looks near factory, so that's a win!

EDIT: While the accelerator cable works great, the pedal throw is incorrect due to the ball and socket linkage requirements. It only pulls the throttle about 1/2 or so. Going to have to modify the Pathfinder pedal and retrofit I think. It's quite a bit longer, I'll have to cut it down probably.

[HRH]

Had a good few days on Wynona. Got a few things figured out. Going with side mount after much deliberation about removing high beams and putting an intercooler in place of the grill. Decided against it, have a spot worked out in the forward fenderwell that will work nicely. I'll have to make a scoop to direct air, but not a big deal.

It gets real when you start putting holes in things. I've only done the one hole so far, then I'll finish up the intercooler mounts and make the second hole. And the garage is a hideous mess. Cleaned it two weekends ago, didn't last long.

[DRIVEN]

Car looks good.
Garage looks horrible.

[HRH]

Lol, every time I try to clean it I end up working too late and have to throw everything in and clean up to do something else. Story of my life. Rest assured when I'm done with the wagon project, the garage will get a thorough day-long cleaning. It will need it.

[Laecaon]

My garage was definitely worse. It was a little bad before the engine swap on the BMW, but then I did that, and without much cleanup, went straight to the transmission rebuild. That was hard to recover from.

Floor is spotless now... and I am moving...



Yea, when I first cut into the frame rails of the 510, it was a bit scary.

[HRH]

Finally cleaned the garage, much better. Still need to clean more, but most of the floor is walkable now. Got a bit more done on the wagon. Intercooler is now routed satisfactorily, though I need to remove it to get the p/s fittings off to have them made. Took my stainless steel amazon/ebay special exhaust downpipe, hacked off the bottom flange and cut the tubes at the top and had dad weld them up pretty after pushing the pipes together again. Took a 1/16 or so cut out of it and then lowered the gap back to the top flange. Moved it over just a hair. Now have 1/8" between transmission bellhousing and 3/8 between steering shaft with a 2.5" downpipe. Quite happy. I'll probably do a little hammer clearancing on the transmission side as well, but it's about good. Had dad weld on an extension piece that I will cut off and put a mandrel bent section on.

In case you didn't know, Summit Racing has tons of mandrel bent exhaust connectors. Quite nice seeing as all the local parts houses have crush bent pieces. Anyway, next big things are p/s hoses, wiring, water attachments, and retweaking the alternator. I've found it's off, and it appears I drilled out the hole too big on the front side, or possibly crooked. So that needs to come off and be put in the drill press and corrected. Think I should have an old alternator with a bushing I can re-use to center it better.

For the record, just buy the damn right alternator. It's more expensive but it would have fit right in and I wouldn't be dicking around spacing the pulley, etc. Also, the RB has the stupidest alternator mount. It incorporates a little block of steel instead of having the boss built into the block. Only half the boss is on the block, the other is the piece you put in. Fucking clown shoes for all the technical wizardry of the RB motor.

[DRIVEN]

Fucking Nissan.

[HRH]

So here's another issue: The RB20DET Skyline GTS-T power steering pump is for HICAS. Which means it has rear steer. The power steering pump has two parts, two impellers and two pressure lines. So while I've read one thing about a bypass on a regular R32 skyline, I'm not sure how it will work if there aren't any lines. The other things I've been reading is you take apart the back half of the pump and remove the impeller then block that pressure line hole. Really want power steering and from all the other reading, apparently all the other KA pumps or whatnot are an inch too long to work correctly.

And on top of it, I replaced the throttle cable on the Subaru, then found the radiator was the smell I've been noticing. Top cap leaking. Fuck me it never ends. And I really wanted to buy the steering box for the hardbody this paycheck...sigh.

[DRIVEN]

Could you just plumb the 2nd fitting through a cooler...because racewagon?

[HRH]

Hmmm, now that's an idea! Thanks man! I read more in-depth in this article https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453 ... lic-lines/ and indeed that's exactly what this guy did. That saves me from taking the pump apart, and certainly a cooler couldn't hurt. Not to mention these power steering systems apparently are known to spew everywhere under hard use. There's a Chase Bays system for $300 that incorporates a new heavily baffled reservoir to stop the turbulence of p/s fluid leading to overflow.

One thing I'm not clear on is why this bypass works? I know there's a supply line from the reservoir, then a pressure line to the p/s gear, then a return line back to the reservoir. Would that mean the reservoir is under 60 psi or so? At the gear the pressure would be mostly taken up by the p/s rack, right? But with just a cooler in between, is that sufficient to not essentially have a power steering pressure hose going directly to the reservoir?

I know I've run cars with the reservoir cap off and nothing bad happens, but the fluid certainly is turning. Then again, I guess I wasn't turning the wheel hard as to make a shit ton of pressure, then I'm sure it would froth and shoot out.

[HRH]

Now this guy is interesting. Talks fast, which is fine, makes it easier to understand things without watching a 20 minute video.



But I think that answers my question, the residual pressure is just recycling to the reservoir anyway. But if it's recycling there, it also has to be sucking in fluid just as fast. So theoretically, the cooler idea should work flawlessly, I think?

[wayno]

That was an interesting video, I never really knew how it worked before, now I do.

[HRH]

Alright, so I finally got everything together enough today to attempt to start. I know the ECU is getting power and correct power, switched and constant 12 v, memory holds. Red light is solid during starting, if I turn the dial back and get into self diagnostic, I have a 34 code, which is detonation knock circuit.

According to everything I've been reading, a 34 code will not make the engine not run. Fuel pump is on, I have it running continually right now for testing via a jumper wire. The jumper is going to the fuel pump relay pin on the ECU, so it should work. When cranking, I can hear pulses but smell no fuel and no fire.

So I'm thinking something is bad where the ECU isn't firing the injectors. I'm guessing the ignition control module, or quite possibly any number of wires in this giant mess I have now.

And to top it off, the water fitting that dad brazed back together is not water tight. Has a leak at the front can. So that sucks, because that stupid water deal comes off with the intake manifold. And It's a giant pain to get out in the car. So I think I'm going to cut the top open and try and weld it, then put the flap back over and weld that too. Or something.

Bah. The RB is not running yet, though it is closer.

[HRH]

Thank goodness I can't leave well enough alone!! I started thinking about how I had the fuel pump relay tied in, and realized it's a trigger, it needs to go to the incoming side of the coil of the fuel pump relay. I had it jumped and ran to power. Not good. Apparently when this happens, it triggers a 34 code, interestingly enough. I also grounded the ECU since I don't have it mounted permanently right now. That may have also had something to do with it.

Anyway, rewired that, hooked in the relay, looks like it's working now. ECU reads 55 which is all normal! So tried to start, got nowhere. Put some brake clean down the intake via a vacuum line and presto, fire!! Wouldn't stay running, but now we're cooking!

Fuel tank is above half, so plenty of fuel. Going to check fuel lines and see if maybe I reversed them or something. Either way, it won't be too long before she fires and I get that much closer to running her down the road!

[DRIVEN]

Make it run!

[HRH]

Ok, so developments:

The fuel pump relay wire causes the 34 knock sensor code when connected to the appropriate spot? Anyway, disconnected, jumped relay connector, works great. Found fuel pump turned on initially for the 10 second bit, then stopped completely. Bypassed that, pump runs continually with key on.

ECU is at 55 again, all good. Tried to start. Same thing as last night. Verified I have the fuel lines run correctly. Supply and return are correct. Engine will run for a brief bit on brake cleaner and while turning, will make popping noises like it's trying, but can't get enough fuel.

Any application of throttle while cranking results in no more pop, slower cranking, until no pedal is given, then it will pop pop pop, but only at cranking speed. I fiddled with very slight movements of the CAS sensor on the front, no change.

I'm pretty sure I got it timed correctly, but now I'm wondering, because it definitely seems like a timing issue, like when you get the drive spindle on an L one tooth off. The engine isn't hitting though, and certainly seems to have plenty of compression when turning over by hand. So aside from possible timing, that leaves:

1. ECU
2. CAS
3. Ignition module
4. Unknown/wiring.

I'm thinking the ECU is not the culprit, only because I can make it recognize different error codes, and after re-wiring, it returning to "55" indicates its working properly.

The CAS isn't immediately suspect, I marked it on initial disassembly and it's in the same position. Although it should provide signal for the fuel pump to turn on, and unless I have it wired incorrectly (the one I just clipped and jumped the fuel pump manually) perhaps it's not sending signal that it's turning the cams, thus telling the ignition module to go. But, it IS firing, so that seems unlikely the CAS is bad, plus, the ECU should see that and report an error.

The ignition module on the other hand I don't think reports. If it's dead, it's just dead, or dead on high or low, but either way I don't think it lets the ECU know. I'm searching the FSM now to see if there's a code for it, so far don't see it.

That's about all the working theories I have now. Going to double check some timing pictures, see if it looks correct, then start testing things I guess. Any thoughts are appreciated!

Hmm, just thought of something. If it runs better with alternate fuel, perhaps I still have a fuel issue, maybe the injectors aren't firing, or are blocked? I found the diagnostic page for not starting, but that seems more likely since it will start after a wad of brake cleaner, but then not do anything. I think I need to check injector function. Wonder if they all could be plugged solid? And actually, now that I'm thinking about it, even after all this cranking, I'm not getting a ton of raw fuel smell out the exhaust, so that would certainly indicate low fuel.

The other question is what powers the injectors. Hmmmm, now I have to research that.