Around Waynos house

[wayno]

I got the rear seal today, I also remembered to get the intake/exhaust gasket as mine was toast, it was $8.75 for both, I said something about shipping and he said he absorbs that, I walked out feeling kinda guilty.
The replacement rear seal is different, the outside is the same but the center is slightly smaller, he said it makes a better seal as the stock ones commonly fail, at least that is what he told me.

[wayno]

I found a color that is a little closer to the exterior color.





I am now wondering if the block would look better this green than the red it is now.

[DRIVEN]

I think that would be too much green. Contrasting color looks better.

[Laecaon]

I agree, keep it red.

[wayno]

OK, less over spray on stuff if I quit painting, the original color wasn't quite red, it was more a mostly Red with a hint of Orange in it, but I didn't have anything like that in my paint can stash, so I went with the Red.
You can see that dirty engine block with a couple spots where it has a hint of color on the last page, but there was so much wiring and other stuff in the way and everything else was so dirty it just looked like a black hole mostly in there, you can see a little color in this photo.



I have the seal in and the flywheel assembly is back on the engine, it's kinda a weird flywheel, the flywheel is not connected to the crank, the clutch cover is mounted to the crank and the flywheel is connected to it with a tapered connection with no key on the crank, the disc is connected to the gear that is connected to the transmission, it's kinda strange to look at, the end of the clutch cover has a slot that a key goes in and then the crank bolt is tightened over all that and that is compressed onto the crank.

[wayno]

I had the key in wrong, once I borrowed my friends socket set that had the correct size I took it off and looked at everything then when I put the key back in it sunk farther in, you can see the difference in the gaps, you can also see the top of the nut is in farther.





I then locked it into position with a punch, so this is ready to go back into the car now.

[wayno]

I am not liking the Mini right now, almost everything was a pain getting that engine in there, my language was colorful.
I sure hope I got that shit in the clutch cover right, pulling it out again would not likely happen soon, it went in the hole easier than it came out, but I knew what was coming, but getting them yokes into the trans-axle was a major pain, I don't know how long I fought them, I gave up on the right side(sitting in the car) and tried the right side with no better result, I finally got frustrated and grabbed a 2X4, used the sub-frame as a brace and I forced the whole engine towards the axle that was started and it gave and slide home, I started on the left side and then I realized I needed to get the header in position so I got that in there after fighting that for a while also, then I went to work on that axle again and while fighting the header it appeared to have slid home also.
Next I tried to mount the 2 bottom center engine mounts, well the left side didn't want to drop far enough down to have the bolts align so I adjusted the engine and finally got them started, not tight, just started, then I dropped the engine down and the other side was more than an inch high, I used a pointed punch and finally got one started by twisting the mount, but this raised the other side even farther away, so again I got frustrated and took a long pry bar, stuck it on the edge of the high side if that mount and I pounded it down until I could get the punch into the hole and then I forced it to the center of the hole, I had to remove the engine hoist as I needed the weight of the engine to get the mount to settle.
I mounted the clutch slave mount bracket and the slave, then I mounted the crank case breather.



I also mounted both braces on the right side(driver side(RHD)), front and back, the other side is where the radiator is and that needs to be put in first before the brace can be mounted, oh and I remembered to connect the speedo cable.

By the way, when the yokes slid home to get them to release I would have had to use that tool I made, so the clips stayed in their grooves where they were supposed to be.

The engine in the engine bay.

[wayno]

I forgot, a box arrived today, a few Nissan diesel parts, a DPC Module, an injection pump controller, 2 glow plug relays, 6 glow plugs, a gas fuel filter and a couple turn signal things, what they are called escapes me now, not sure if any of it works, I will test the diesel stuff later, one of the relays was in a Nissan parts box, but it looks to have been mounted before, the stuff was bought the 12th on Ebay and it arrived today 3 days later.

[wayno]

I started it today, it had no coolant in it so I only ran it maybe 10 seconds, it appeared to run normal so I shut it down and called it a day at 5:30pm, that is the longest I have worked on a vehicle in a while.
I went to Baxters to get an oil filter for it, when I pressure washed it the sticker with the number came off, so I took the filter with me, them guys are idiots, if it is not on the computer they cannot find a filter, there is a whole wall of filters and they cannot find what I need, I finally asked the guy if he could figure out the thread slope and measure how big around the seal was and find one out there on the wall that way, he said no and I turned around and walked out and just now I realized I never looked back while I was leaving, not once even when I was outside, as I was walking out I thought there is no reason to come back to this place anymore.
I put that stupid old filter back on the car so I could start it, it's likely 10 years old but likely only has maybe 500 miles on it, maybe a thousand, the oil was still a clear amber color but I changed that anyway.



I was thinking about making a PCV setup for this car, but it would almost make it a closed system, there is no vent on the valve cover like the L blocks have, the oil cap has a tiny hole in it, but that is not big enough, I don't want it puking oil out the seals so I decided to leave it alone.

By the way all the spark plugs were a perfect tan color when I removed them to paint the block/head.

[wayno]

I Hope I found the WIX the number I need, I searched several ways and the only one that showed a positive result was "oil filter for 1980 Mini" and the result I got is below, the quotation marks were required to get a positive result, without them all I got was places that sell oil filters.

Parts Equivalency - Mini Owners of Texas
miniownersoftexas.com › forum

The filter for mid-80s Chrysler 2.2L engines (Omni, Charger, Horizon, etc.) fits and works perfectly.

* AC DELCO 93156323
* AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
* AMSOIL SDF-57
* BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
* BOSCH 72150
* BOSCH DistancePlus D3330
* FRAM PH966B
* FRAM PH2870A
* FRAM PH3614
* K&N HP1002
* K&N PS-1002
* MANN 056 115 561G
* NAPA 1374
* PUROLATOR L10028
* PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
* UNIPART GFE148
* WIX WL7142
* Mobil M1 102

[Taterhead]

At least now you have a plethora of different options to check out.

[DRIVEN]

Haven't been in a Baxters in years and years, for similar reasons. Shame, it was once my favorite.

[wayno]

I have a Baxters real close to me, I rode my bike there yesterday but it wasn't a total waste of time as I got some exercise, I used to buy everything I needed there, now I can get the off the shelf stuff elsewhere for cheaper.
There are other auto parts stores within riding distance, but my bike is not equipped to haul gallon containers, so when riding home from Baxters I would just ride with one arm while holding the container with the other, 5 blocks no big deal, but the other places are too far away to ride like that so I would need to drive there which is too bad.
It's hard to get any real help at these auto parts stores anymore, custom is not in their vocabulary unless it is on the shelf like stuff for a small block Chevy, I don't know what I will do when I need shorter shocks for a lowered Datsun anymore as I threw away the boxes that held the shocks with the number on it, and I don't remember if I posted the number in that thread.

[wayno]

I got a lot more than oil filter info from that source.
http://miniownersoftexas.com/forum/inde ... e=page2589

Info for all these things is there.
Parts Types:

* 1 Air Filters
* 2 Spark Plugs
* 3 Spin-on Oil Filters
* 4 Canister Oil Filters
* 5 Points
* 6 Distributor Condenser
* 7 Alternator
* 8 Oil
* 9 Rear wheel cylinders (and rebuild kits)
* 10 Starter solenoid
* 11 Starter
* 12 Carburetor
* 13 Generic 12v coils
* 14 Head Gasket
* 15 Thermostat
* 16 Hydraulic Brake Light Switch

[wayno]

I spent way over an hour trying to find one of these badges for sale, I had already checked ebay and could not find one but it turned out I didn't word it properly, I finally found one at Moss Motors and wording it properly on the ebay search found me one there, still there was only one in 10 pages of the ebay results as that is where I stopped, normally I would not make it past the 3rd page but I was on a mission by then.



I pulled the louvered hood I had out of the box as I replaced with a stock hood(that's how I got the box), it had the badge on it but it was glued on and it wasn't that pretty, I figured I would break it trying to get it off and that is what led to my search for a new one.

I finally found an oil filter(WIX) but it was not the one I went after(WL7142) as they didn't have that number on the shelf, so we looked up the Chrysler Omni, he then had the thread slope and the gasket size across by that, went to his book and found one for me, they had a generic for half the price but it was made in China, but I went for the WIX hoping it is not made in China also, I didn't look.

I bought anti-freeze and filled the radiator up and started it up and ran it for a while(warmed it up), pulled it down off the ramps and so far no oil leaks, there was a coolant leak, at first I thought it was the thermostat cover so I tightened down the bolts but they were already snug, I used air ti dry it out in that area and finally figured out it was the upper radiator hose connection to that cover, I had to tighten that clamp up really tight and it was still leaking, so then I went even tighter and it finally stopped, I think that is the tightest I have ever got a hose clamp without ruining it.

I tacked the exhaust pipe to the header so it will not move/fall off, I also had to tighten the 2 center nuts holding the exhaust onto the head as I could see a puff of exhaust smoke shooting straight up between the valve cover and the carb, I didn't see any more smoke, they are very tight now, I was a little worried I would start pulling the studs out of the aluminum head, I went really tight.

It's ready to drive now, but it is raining outside, I don't drive this when it is wet outside.

[DRIVEN]

It looks really, really good. That emblem will be a nice finisher.

[wayno]

Thanks

The guy that attempted to clean the primer over spray off the car from when I painted the 520 asked if I had the hood badge right away when he seen the car, it needs the hood badge and I bought one, guaranteed to be here by the 21st of November.
I suspect that this is not going to get much attention till after the first of the year as the holidays are almost here, not sure when the best time to sell it is, I don't sell expensive vehicles very often as I don't normally own expensive vehicles, I just own pieces of shit that keep going and going and when they do break I fix them and continue on till they break again.

[DRIVEN]

Swap meet

[wayno]

That is a good idea as I have a spot, but I am going to try and sell it before then.

[wayno]

Well I guess I have more work to do on this Mini now, I kept feeling moisture on the driver side floor, so this evening I lifted the rug, and several layers of matting and it was wet underneath, so I removed it all and found major rust, it also looks like some moron was jacking the car up using the floor board sheet metal instead of the sub-frame, the left passenger side I was able to just use a sledge and pound it more or less flat and only found one little spot with a rust hole, otherwise it is solid, likely an easy fix.



The driver side(RHD) was another story, I have been looking at the rocker area for a while now and found a place that I believe I can buy that, while looking for that part I found a RH front floor pan also, so I went out there and was looking at the inner rocker to see what shape it was in, it appears to be fine and that is when I felt the moisture again, that is when I started tearing things apart.



Here is the rocker area, the larger hole is supposed to be there but that is a patch panel, so the inside guts are not there to support jacking the car up, the hole above it is not supposed to be there.





I knew about the rocker(other side is fine), but I didn't know about the driver side floor board, and I have never drove this car in the rain so it was there before I bought it, the water got in this time because I pressure washed the engine compartment, and there are a few holes in the firewall on that side, I am drying it out with my work light, I will call about the replacement parts tomorrow.

There was a lot of layers of matting in this little car, 3 different layers and then the green rug, plus it has that stick on tar crap from the factory that started breaking off when I flattened the passenger side leaving good looking metal below it, I suppose it was there for sound deadening, maybe it would have been better to put a better muffler on it, but maybe the muffler was put on it to hide the road noise.