Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again....
- Spoona_Jay21
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- Cars: 1978 620 KC
Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again....
SO to put it simply, I have a 1978 Datsun 620 KC. it's... well... for lack of a better term, A pile.
My dad bought this as a parts truck about 5 years ago, and as he drove it before he parted it, i kinda formed a bond with it. so after he parted it, I said I wanted it, and he decided to give me this rusty P.O.S, to put back together.
NOW TO THE PICTARS!
This was right after we got it.
as you can see.... it's quite a bucket. part of the reason, I LOVE IT! the other part is cause it's a Datsun....
And this was about 2 months after we got it. still not pretty. BUT it had a mix of random pipe, and Eagle Talon exhaust so that we could actually HEAR on another while we were driving.
^why yes, i am a stanceoholic ^
and sadly.... this is how he sits now.... Heartless.... Brainless.... Dead..... for now.....
(the shitty pics to reflect him in all of his shittyness....)
^my beautiful Mercedes lights^
^the POWER, LEATHER seats that are goin in my truck once i figure how to mount them(not actual ones, just imagine this in a Ghastly Avocado green)
so here is the Idea. I'm broke as hell and Jobless, so i can't afford jack. so the Idea for NOW:
- once my dad does the Teardown of his 73' 620, i get my horribly running L20b back.
- fix floors(ish); going to be using what i can find. Old license plates, Plexiglass, shelf brackets, ect.
-Get my new lights and seats in, which came courtesy of a 1982 Mercedes 300SD (pics of such above)
-get new mirrors. as long as they aren't big ugly truck mirrors, i don't care. (yes i know the irony of not wanting truck mirrors for my truck...)
-DRIVE THE PISS OUT OF IT!
The Idea once i have Money:
about the same, just with a Carbed, single turbo, Mazda 13B (yes i know i will get crap for that.) reasoning is, small lightweight, and....
[youtube][/youtube]
thats about it. I will post more progress as it happens, which will be very seldom. BUUUUUTTTTTTT it will happen. Thank god my Girlfriend is Supportive of my truck and likes it about as much as i Love Watermelon. (which FYI is... ALOT)
and because every post deserves boobs.
My dad bought this as a parts truck about 5 years ago, and as he drove it before he parted it, i kinda formed a bond with it. so after he parted it, I said I wanted it, and he decided to give me this rusty P.O.S, to put back together.
NOW TO THE PICTARS!
This was right after we got it.
as you can see.... it's quite a bucket. part of the reason, I LOVE IT! the other part is cause it's a Datsun....
And this was about 2 months after we got it. still not pretty. BUT it had a mix of random pipe, and Eagle Talon exhaust so that we could actually HEAR on another while we were driving.
^why yes, i am a stanceoholic ^
and sadly.... this is how he sits now.... Heartless.... Brainless.... Dead..... for now.....
(the shitty pics to reflect him in all of his shittyness....)
^my beautiful Mercedes lights^
^the POWER, LEATHER seats that are goin in my truck once i figure how to mount them(not actual ones, just imagine this in a Ghastly Avocado green)
so here is the Idea. I'm broke as hell and Jobless, so i can't afford jack. so the Idea for NOW:
- once my dad does the Teardown of his 73' 620, i get my horribly running L20b back.
- fix floors(ish); going to be using what i can find. Old license plates, Plexiglass, shelf brackets, ect.
-Get my new lights and seats in, which came courtesy of a 1982 Mercedes 300SD (pics of such above)
-get new mirrors. as long as they aren't big ugly truck mirrors, i don't care. (yes i know the irony of not wanting truck mirrors for my truck...)
-DRIVE THE PISS OUT OF IT!
The Idea once i have Money:
about the same, just with a Carbed, single turbo, Mazda 13B (yes i know i will get crap for that.) reasoning is, small lightweight, and....
[youtube][/youtube]
thats about it. I will post more progress as it happens, which will be very seldom. BUUUUUTTTTTTT it will happen. Thank god my Girlfriend is Supportive of my truck and likes it about as much as i Love Watermelon. (which FYI is... ALOT)
and because every post deserves boobs.
Last edited by Spoona_Jay21 on Mon Nov 04, 2013 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- 510freak
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Great project 620
Welcome to NWD
Taterhead » Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:35 am wrote:[quote="Taterhead » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:41 pm
Sorry, I was channeling my inner flatcat.
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'79 Patina KC 620 - Location: Land of Po ta toes
Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Sweet!!!!
Welcome aboard!!
Welcome aboard!!
DRIVEN » Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:30 pm wrote:I think Bill might be gettin laid.
Ni10 » Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:56 am wrote: all Datsuns ran when parked.
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
oh damn dude. that thing is beat down. Love it! hahaha hurry up and do work, so i can enjoy the new pictures.
8========D ~~~ ( o Y o )
jayden71: titty ponk
devilsbullet wrote: 1400 obo. and best offer doesn't mean 300 bucks you cheap bastards
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Scary part is I drove that thing for a while. And its LOW! I got high centered on a 2 inchish high speed bump and on some rail road tracks.
73 620 L20b 4spd (work), 73 620 L20b 5spd (play), 99 Jetta TDI (commuter), 89 Jetta (playtoy), 76 Sierra Grande (work)
"Shiny! Lets be bad guys!"
"Shiny! Lets be bad guys!"
- Spoona_Jay21
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Thanks guys! hope to have this running within a year or so. *fingers crossed*
- flatcat19
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Welcome to NWD, Jay.
Glad to have you here.
Keep at that truck!
Glad to have you here.
Keep at that truck!
Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
You have got your hands full with that truck! But, being a newer member myself, I think you've latched onto a bunch of good people here! Good to have you aboard!
There comes a time when reliving your youth, requires the acquisition of a Datsun, like the one you drove in high school and the other one when you were just done with college. The issue then becomes. . . Fitting again, behind the wheel!
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Oh, he's from Ratsun. We know Jay.
You will notice that we all know each other.
Some from in person. Some from being in the Datsun forums together for years.
It's all aboot one thing. OK, three.
Making fun of Canada, beewbs, and Datsuns.
You will notice that we all know each other.
Some from in person. Some from being in the Datsun forums together for years.
It's all aboot one thing. OK, three.
Making fun of Canada, beewbs, and Datsuns.
- Spoona_Jay21
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- wayno
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Welcome
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein
- Spoona_Jay21
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
well after me bein lazy I came back to give an update. Was able to get an L16 block, got that torn apart and started cleaning up the A87 Head I plan on Using.
Pictures will come tonight. computer i am on is being a pain.
Pictures will come tonight. computer i am on is being a pain.
- 510freak
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Right on, waiting on update(s)
Taterhead » Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:35 am wrote:[quote="Taterhead » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:41 pm
Sorry, I was channeling my inner flatcat.
- Ni10
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
what happen to all the pic's ?
and Spoona_Jay21
and Spoona_Jay21
DRIVEN » Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:01 am wrote: Datsuns don't break down. They just get unscheduled upgrades.
- Spoona_Jay21
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- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:03 pm
- Cars: 1978 620 KC
Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
Ni10 wrote:what happen to all the pic's ?
and Spoona_Jay21
Pics fixed
- Spoona_Jay21
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
New progress!
I was able to pick up an L16 from Tristan and Ifound a spare A87 square port head, so i was able to start a teardown.
^before clean up^
^LOOK AT HOW SMOOTH THOSE ARE!!!!^
Do the marks on the Con rods look normal?
the A87 I was able to find. Kinda weary about it cause it is massively corroded
So there is the latest news. trying to debate on wether i should rebuild this head, find another L head, or do a Frankenstien and toss a KA24DE head on it. Opinions?
I was able to pick up an L16 from Tristan and Ifound a spare A87 square port head, so i was able to start a teardown.
^before clean up^
^LOOK AT HOW SMOOTH THOSE ARE!!!!^
Do the marks on the Con rods look normal?
the A87 I was able to find. Kinda weary about it cause it is massively corroded
So there is the latest news. trying to debate on wether i should rebuild this head, find another L head, or do a Frankenstien and toss a KA24DE head on it. Opinions?
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
620 looks decent man cool !
Nice job man. Keep it up.
You can get a rougher measurement to see how far the valves have sunk into the seats... look at the lash adjustment of how much is left at proper adjustment lol. It's a very common problem with early L6 heads (pre-75).
Your valves really don't look that bad (at a rough glance) but you'll have a close view of them in person with fresh eyes..
The cam... IDK ... some rust can be polished out , but from my understanding don't want to go past the case hardening. Then again some re-ground camshafts "may not" be case hardened or treated after. Food for thought.
Keep everything in order if you dis-assemble and be ohhhhh so careful of the cam-tower bearings (internal towers themselves lol).
The bearings are what you want to look at.
You can plasti gauge the assembly while it's on the crank... plasti-gauge is cheap at any auto-parts store.
You can also use micrometers ... internal and external then get a measurement off of those ... record all readings ! (document).
Mic the crank ... even if a machine shop does it for free ... it's a valuable lessen.
Check the height of the head , and check for warpage ... with a straight-edge + feeler gauges ... or a machine shop will do that for free.
Check for heavy electrolysis in the coolant passage ways , and in the timing cover (water pump directly).
Replace all core plugs ... I prefer brass ... but steel is in all reality just as good for the purpose intended.
You can have the rods checked for straightness , but chances are they'll be fine.
I put light thread-loc on the rod bolts when re-assembling as well.
The Ford 4.9 rods eventually stretch some ... lol ... they had like 30 different rod-bearing sizes last I checked ? lol (great engine !!!)
You're doing a good job. Don't get discouraged with anything that happens as we're all in the same boat at one point or another.
BLUE (DTP)
Nice job man. Keep it up.
You can get a rougher measurement to see how far the valves have sunk into the seats... look at the lash adjustment of how much is left at proper adjustment lol. It's a very common problem with early L6 heads (pre-75).
Your valves really don't look that bad (at a rough glance) but you'll have a close view of them in person with fresh eyes..
The cam... IDK ... some rust can be polished out , but from my understanding don't want to go past the case hardening. Then again some re-ground camshafts "may not" be case hardened or treated after. Food for thought.
Keep everything in order if you dis-assemble and be ohhhhh so careful of the cam-tower bearings (internal towers themselves lol).
The bearings are what you want to look at.
You can plasti gauge the assembly while it's on the crank... plasti-gauge is cheap at any auto-parts store.
You can also use micrometers ... internal and external then get a measurement off of those ... record all readings ! (document).
Mic the crank ... even if a machine shop does it for free ... it's a valuable lessen.
Check the height of the head , and check for warpage ... with a straight-edge + feeler gauges ... or a machine shop will do that for free.
Check for heavy electrolysis in the coolant passage ways , and in the timing cover (water pump directly).
Replace all core plugs ... I prefer brass ... but steel is in all reality just as good for the purpose intended.
You can have the rods checked for straightness , but chances are they'll be fine.
I put light thread-loc on the rod bolts when re-assembling as well.
The Ford 4.9 rods eventually stretch some ... lol ... they had like 30 different rod-bearing sizes last I checked ? lol (great engine !!!)
You're doing a good job. Don't get discouraged with anything that happens as we're all in the same boat at one point or another.
BLUE (DTP)
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
- Spoona_Jay21
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:03 pm
- Cars: 1978 620 KC
Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
thanks for the info. i will have to decypher half of what you said but what i understood is very helpful =)BLUE wrote:620 looks decent man cool !
Nice job man. Keep it up.
You can get a rougher measurement to see how far the valves have sunk into the seats... look at the lash adjustment of how much is left at proper adjustment lol. It's a very common problem with early L6 heads (pre-75).
Your valves really don't look that bad (at a rough glance) but you'll have a close view of them in person with fresh eyes..
The cam... IDK ... some rust can be polished out , but from my understanding don't want to go past the case hardening. Then again some re-ground camshafts "may not" be case hardened or treated after. Food for thought.
Keep everything in order if you dis-assemble and be ohhhhh so careful of the cam-tower bearings (internal towers themselves lol).
The bearings are what you want to look at.
You can plasti gauge the assembly while it's on the crank... plasti-gauge is cheap at any auto-parts store.
You can also use micrometers ... internal and external then get a measurement off of those ... record all readings ! (document).
Mic the crank ... even if a machine shop does it for free ... it's a valuable lessen.
Check the height of the head , and check for warpage ... with a straight-edge + feeler gauges ... or a machine shop will do that for free.
Check for heavy electrolysis in the coolant passage ways , and in the timing cover (water pump directly).
Replace all core plugs ... I prefer brass ... but steel is in all reality just as good for the purpose intended.
You can have the rods checked for straightness , but chances are they'll be fine.
I put light thread-loc on the rod bolts when re-assembling as well.
The Ford 4.9 rods eventually stretch some ... lol ... they had like 30 different rod-bearing sizes last I checked ? lol (great engine !!!)
You're doing a good job. Don't get discouraged with anything that happens as we're all in the same boat at one point or another.
BLUE (DTP)
trust me, Being discouraged when building up this truck, isn't possible for me. i love it, and hope to still have it when i have grand kids.
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Re: Sebastien... Oh no.... it's that S**tbox Datsun again...
lol .. no problem ... just ask me where I wasn't clear on my previous and I'll try to help.... with less gibberish of course
That's an awesome attitude to have man ... really +1 for you ... and am glad to hear it !!!
Also make dang sure the head-bolt holes are chased (cleaned) and inspected ... some are half-way marred or even ready to strip out ! (giggidity).
In fact clean all bolts , studs , holes ... it takes a lot of time but the result is well worth it (like we're suppose to anyways right ? lol)
I use some anti-seize ... on exhaust studs , thermostat housing bolts , valve cover , etc ,,, just a little bit goes a long ways !
I also use some "teflon sealer" (liquid) for some of the timing cover bolts , etc ... keeps the stuff from contracting moisture ... rusted in ... breaking.
For head-bolts I tend to use some other type of head-bolt teflon sealer made by "ARP" (just a little bit goes a long ways) that is sold by Baxters Auto Parts ... It's pretty decent stuff to use.
^^^ Most of this is pre-cautionary and preventative measures ... mostly opinion , and not everyone uses them.
Good luck and will be watching ... even if I don't post with me gibberish lol
That's an awesome attitude to have man ... really +1 for you ... and am glad to hear it !!!
Also make dang sure the head-bolt holes are chased (cleaned) and inspected ... some are half-way marred or even ready to strip out ! (giggidity).
In fact clean all bolts , studs , holes ... it takes a lot of time but the result is well worth it (like we're suppose to anyways right ? lol)
I use some anti-seize ... on exhaust studs , thermostat housing bolts , valve cover , etc ,,, just a little bit goes a long ways !
I also use some "teflon sealer" (liquid) for some of the timing cover bolts , etc ... keeps the stuff from contracting moisture ... rusted in ... breaking.
For head-bolts I tend to use some other type of head-bolt teflon sealer made by "ARP" (just a little bit goes a long ways) that is sold by Baxters Auto Parts ... It's pretty decent stuff to use.
^^^ Most of this is pre-cautionary and preventative measures ... mostly opinion , and not everyone uses them.
Good luck and will be watching ... even if I don't post with me gibberish lol
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
- Spoona_Jay21
- Posts: 241
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:03 pm
- Cars: 1978 620 KC